Sailing from Panama to Colombia

Caribbean – January 2019

It has been on my mind since I started researching my journey from northern to southern America. Making the journey from Panama to Colombia in a sailing boat! The only option I came across at the time would have been to fly. There is no public transport in the Darian Gap region around the border between the two countries. While there are cheaper and maybe more authentic ways to cross this border, I was really keen on sailing in the Caribbean.

I chose to sail from Portobelo, PA to Cartagena, CO on the “Gitanita”. The boat company offered me to organize the transfer from Panama City to the port. However, I wanted to spend a bit more time in Portobelo, as it seemed like a pretty Caribbean town. So I take a long-distance bus from Panama City to Colón and there change to a chicken bus. I arrive in the seaside town a day before my boat is about to leave. At the hostel “Luna Llena” the friendly Czech owner welcomes me and later informs me that there are two German guys who might be taking the same boat as me.

After a little confusion, it’s confirmed that Jonathan, Paul and I are going to spend the next couple of days together. We go to the local shops to buy snacks and alcohol and have dinner and a few beers at the hostel. The next morning, we take a cab to the port and meet the rest of the group. First, the crew around César (the captain) explains what lays ahead of us and tells us about the rules on the boat. 1: no shoes, 2: no drugs, 3: relax and have fun.

Our big backpacks are stuffed away and set sail. While César navigates out of the port, I remember that I have to take my seasickness pills. Then Emerson shows us the cabins and how the bathrooms work. I share the berth in the bow with Crystal from Australia and while we are under the deck, the two of us notice how we start to feel a little uneasy. Behind us, we hear Rupert puke into the washbasin (NOT the proper way to use it) and we quickly head upstairs. A few minutes later we are out on the open sea. As the waves get higher and higher, I join Floor in the rear end of the boat and we both spend the following hours feeding the fish.

While we are on the verge of jumping into the sea to set an end to our misery, Edgardo is cooking delicious chicken broth under deck. As soon as we arrive in the shallow waters of the San Blas archipelago, we all feel much better and our bellies are happy about the new source of energy. Before dinner, we head to a close by island and explore the paradise-like beaches. That night, no one touches any of the bottles of rum and everybody goes to bed early.

The next day we set sail shortly after breakfast. The first stop is the main island, where our passports receive the exit stamp for Panama. In the meantime, César buys fresh lobsters from the Guna men approaching the Gitanita in their canoes. Once everyone is back in the boat, we take off to supposedly the best area for snorkelling in the archipelago. We spend a few hours in the water and admire the beautiful fish, starfish and reefs. Later we sail to the quiet bay where we anchor for the night. On the dingy, César takes us to the small island where we relax in the shallow, crystal clear water, play volleyball, eat coconut (which Jonathan hand-picked for us) and take pictures of bent palm trees.

While we are having fun in paradise, Edgardo and Emerson prepare the most amazing seafood barbecue I’ve ever had. Accompanied by a couple of bottles of rum, the evening turns to night and the party is getting started. Another group arrived by catamaran and sets up a makeshift disco with speakers and flashlights. Crystal, Gesa and I decide to clear our heads on a walk around the island. We come across fluorescent algae which glow in the dark when touched. It’s truly magical, especially with the clear, starry night sky above us.

The following day we sleep in and after breakfast head to our last stop before the big crossing to Colombia. It’s an island at the very edge of the archipelago where someone built a whole house made of plastic that was washed ashore. The beach facing the open waters is covered in rubbish, while the land-facing side sports the most pristine, white sand. Sandro takes a group picture of us on the latter side with his drone. We take our seasickness pills and go for a last swim in the warm water.

Everyone is a little worried about the upcoming 24 to 40 hours on the open water. The first crossing still sits in the back of our mind, and we expect worse. However, when we see dolphins swimming in the bow waves, our spirits brighten up. To our surprise, it’s all smooth sailing and nobody falls sick again and after 28 hours we arrive in Cartagena shortly after sunset. The crew invites us to a party in the harbour the next day, and all of us passengers spend the next few days in the Colombian coast town together.

Disclaimer:

I did enjoy the few days at sea very much, and the sailing boat was definitely the right choice for me. But f I were to visit the San Blas Islands again, I would probably opt for a more local experience. I came across Mia San Blas which supposedly is a Guna owned and run company offering an authentic visit to their homeland including the border crossing. However, I am not sure about the timeliness of this information.