Christmas in Antigua Guatemala

Guatemala – December 2018

In Guatemala, like many other places around the world, Christmas is celebrated on Christmas Eve. So on 24 December 2018, I am in for a treat. My first day in Antigua Guatemala starts with a stroll to get to know the picturesque colonial town. I do some sightseeing and figure out my hike up to one of the closeby volcanoes for the next day before heading to the humongous market I’ve read a lot about.

First I head to the open area where a whole row of stalls selling blinking electronic gadgets are lined up. At the end of the crowded alley I arrive at the fruit market. Delicious looking, glossy pineapples, bananas and mangos make my mouth watery. But the taxi driver who picked me up at the airport told me about “Caldo de pollo”, and I am determined to eat a warm soup for lunch. So I head to one of the many entrances to the maze-like covered market hall. 

Passing stalls offering cleaning products, more electrical goods, vegetables, books, stationery and fresh meat, I finally make it to the cantina. The little square with a seating area in the centre is surrounded by small food stalls selling delicious smelling home-cooked meals. I find a free table at a kind lady’s shop and order a portion of “Caldo de pollo” which is served with a bunch of mais tortillas. The chicken broth with rice and vegetables is the perfect meal to help make me feel a little warmer.

In the afternoon I walk around a bit more and then hang out on one of the many benches at the main square to read in my book. After a while an older gentleman walks up to me and asks me in Spanish if he can sit next to me. As most of the benches are occupied right now, I don’t think much of it. The man asks me where I am from and what I am doing here – the usual questions. I then go back to reading, but he keeps chatting me up. In the end he explains the local Chrstmas customs to me and invites me to celebrate with his family.

Intrigued by the kind gesture, but somewhat uneasy about the glances from the couple of younger people sitting across the alley from us, I tell the guy that I’ve already got plans to celebrate with people from the hostel I am staying at. Soon after he leaves and I too make my way to my accommodation. On the way I pass the cathedral, where there is a spectacle going on with huge figurines which seem to tell the Christmas story. I briefly stop, but as the crowd is too big, I can’t really see or hear anything.

Back at Maya Papaya Hostel, the kind receptionist informs me that tonight they offer the traditional Christmas meal “Tamales” to all guests staying there. I gladly accept the invitation and head to my dorm to rest a little. Later I return to the beautifully decorated patio and write a bit in my travel journal. I chat with one of the other guests – Jack, a journalist from Australia who has a lot of stories to tell. When he leaves, Rodrigo from reception – who’s also the bartender – comes over and asks if I wanted a Mojito. For the special occasion they have a two for one offer. 

Considering that I’ve never had Mojitos for Christmas before, I accept and head over to the bar. Chris, a tall guy from Canada, is already sitting there also sipping on a Mojito. We get talking and Rodrigo asks me in Spanish to explain the Tamales-Offer to Chris. I rave about the mais-based Masa stuffed with meat and different kinds of sauces. Needless to say, a couple minutes later Rodrigo returns with 2 plates and 2 more Mojitos. However, as I have to leave early the next day for my hike, I tell Chris that I’ll be going to bed early today. So after we finish our meal he decides to head out to a rooftop bar Rodrigo recommends by himself.

A few minutes later, an English couple comes up to me and asks if I wanted to go with them for a beer at the local pub. Thinking that a little beer won’t harm, I join them and we end up having a couple of pitchers at the “Londoner”. A little after midnight I convince the two that it’s time to go back home. We stagger out of the bar and are surprised to see the streets alive with people of all ages. There are lots of fireworks and children lighting firecrackers. John almost gets hit by one of them when trying to take a picture. As I have to get up early the next morning for my hike up volcano Pacaya, I decide that this is my sign to go to bed.