France – August 2020

You might have read my post about the Road Trip through Southern France I took in 2020 with my friend Selina. I’ve only briefly mentioned the gorgeous Pays Basque there, but I could fill pages talking about my favourite area of France. The first time I came here was in 2016 for a week of surfing with a couple of friends near Moliets-et-Maa and I loved it. So when Selina and I put together the route for our road trip, we had to include the French Atlantic coast.

We arrive in Guéthary from Pau at around lunch time. As during the previous days, we’ve checked a couple of campgrounds in the area where we wanted to stay, but didn’t book any specific spots. The first place we try is the InterPlage Camping snuggling on a cliff between two beaches. While waiting for the staff at the front desk to return from their lunch break, Selina and I go on a little walk and soon discover that our chances to find a place to put up our tent here are slimm. Every single one of the spots with magnificent views of the ocean is taken up by pretty camper vans with surfboards strapped on their roof.

The friendly guy at the front desk confirms our fear and recommends another campground a bit further down the hill. At Tamaris Page we’re luckier and on a ride around the property on a golf cart can even choose between a number of spots. We decide on one with a seaview and quickly set up our tent. As it’s supposed to be raining in the evening, we head down to the sea as soon as possible. The sandy beach is packed with French and Spanish tourists. Selina and I find a free space to lay down our towels and jump into the refreshingly cool Atlantic Ocean.

After a rainy night, we get up early the next day to explore the nearby town of Bayonne. I’ve visited the small town a few years earlier during the annual “Fêtes de Bayonne” and am determined to show Selina it’s Basque spirit. We brunch on the lively square in front of the cathedral, walk down the narrow alleys lined with beautifully painted houses and buy pretty postcards at our favourite french press shop. With a detour to the massive Carrefour close to Saint-Jean-de-Luz we return to our campground in the early afternoon and go for another swim in the ocean.

The next day I walk up the hill to the small grocery store to buy some fresh baguette for breakfast. Later we get our laundry done and then head down to the beach. By now we’ve figured out the best place to get a good look on the lifeguards, which at the same time is far enough away from annoying kids. We spend all day sunbathing, reading, jumping into the waves from time to time and snacking on watermelons. In the evening we drive over to Saint-Jean-de-Luz for a little date night. The small fishing village sports lots of cute restaurants, so we have a tough time deciding on where to have dinner. We finally agree on a little bistro selling “Moule et Frites” and enjoy the warm summer air on their terrace.

Another rainy night behind us, we get up early again as today it’s time to visit Biarritz. Another town I know from a previous visit, but couldn’t wait to return to. The beach town holds this unique combination of laid back surfer vibe and aristocratic architecture. Selina and I stroll along the seashore, do some window shopping at high-end boutiques and lunch at a hip vegan bowllery. With the sun burning down relentlessly, we try to hide from it inside the market hall in the afternoon. Finally accepting that there is no hiding from it, we decide to return to the campground and jump into the cool waters instead.

Later that night we make finally make it to the beach on the other side of the hill and get to witness one of the most beautiful sunsets I’ve ever seen. Joined only by a few couples and dogs, we sit by the sea, build sand castles and fantasize about our dream camper van we’ll probably never own.