Portugal – August 2021

Of course my Grand Tour of the Iberian peninsula wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Portugal. My first stop is Porto – or Oporto, how it’s called by the locals. The second Portuguese metropolis after Lisbon is located in the north of the country and best known for its Port Wine. Now in my opinion this city should be on the top list for any lovebirds looking for a weekend getaway in Europe. But more about that later.

I arrive in the historic center of Porto on an exceptionally hot summer day without a single cloud in sight. As I’ve booked a hostel located on the southern side of the river Duoro, I have to cross the big bridge I’ve already spotted from the bus. Following Google Maps, I walk down a tiny alley with lots of colourful houses with laundry hanging from every window. Arriving at the lower level of said bridge, a pleasant wind accompanies me on the way over to Vila Nova de Gaia.

I check into the iconic Sandeman Hostel, a building facing the river which was once upon a time used for port wine export. As my dorm is not ready yet, I do a bit of writing by the window with magnificent views of the historic buildings across the river. Later, I walk up to the steep streets of Vila Nova de Gaia to visit the monastery located on top of the hill which offers more great views on old Porto.

Back at the hostel I meet a couple of Dutch girls and we agree to meet at the downstairs bar later for some Port Cocktails. This proofs to be the best idea we could have had and I take a note to try to recreate some of the drinks when I’m back home. When the girls head to their cruise along the river, I take advantage of golden hour and go on a photo mission. Later I am lucky enough to find a table at a local restaurant with front row seats to an incredible sunset over the colourful hills of Porto.

The next day is all about walking. First, I drag myself all the way uphill to an incredible bunch place. Then some disappointment follows as I head to “Palacio de Cristal” which seems to be surrounded by a parc. Now what I have in mind is something like the “Palacio de Cristal” in Madrid – however, its Portuguese counterpart doesn’t quite live up to those expectations. Neither do the “Mercado Bom Successo” nor the “Casa da Musica”. But maybe that’s just me and the lack of research..

What I really enjoy though is the walk from this never part of town to the faraway eastern end of Old Town. My goal is the Rua Santa Catarina. On the way there I take a turn whenever I see a beautiful street – and there are many of those – lined with tiled houses and bushes with red blooms. Quite pleased with my discoveries, I take a break at “Jardim Marques de Oliveira” and plan my route back to the hostel. I continue my game of turns and finally end up at the cathedral “Sé do Porto” towering high over the river. From there it’s only a short walk across the top level of Ponte Luís I. to my hostel.

As the evening is approaching, I get bored and grow a little sad about not having anybody to experience this beautiful city with. And as it goes, I find myself swiping away on one of the notorious dating apps. After a short while I get a match and the guy asks if I would be down for dinner with a stranger, as his friend is heavily jetlagged. I suggest to try the famous “Francesinha” and promptly ask the staff at the hostel for a restaurant recommendation. And an hour later I meet my date at “Cervejeria Brasão Coliseu”.

We get some IPAs and the Francesinhas and have a good conversation over dinner. As the night is still young, we decide to grab some drinks by the river. After a short stop at the cathedral to take in the night views, we head down the narrow alleys and here and there glance into courtyards. Arriving at the river we get front-row seats to a Magician’s performance and enjoy the overall atmosphere of the place. While I usually very much enjoy my own company, tonight I am happy not to stand out that much from all the couples and groups of friends around us.

And so, when my date asks if we should try to find another bar I gladly agree. We head uphill, as the places by the river start to close. Quite some walking later we haven’t found any open bars, but a group of Italians with a plan. We join them and soon find Base Porto – a pretty, open bar with fairy lights hung all over the courtyard. After some beers my date notes that he actually stays right around the corner. I check our location and see that I’ll have to walk all the way back downhill to my hostel and so I choose the easier option for now…