Portugal – August 2021

After two days of touring Lisbon and staying at a party hostel which doesn’t represent my current mood at all, I decide to treat myself to a nice evening out. I put on my new oversized, beige stripped blouse, some jean shorts and sunglasses and head out into the buzzing streets of Baixa. As it’s still quite early, I first head to the waterfront and go on a little walk along the quai towards Praça Europa. During the past days I’ve noticed that it’s one of the popular evening hangout spots.

And who could blame the people…the view of Ponte 25 de Abril during the golden hour is stunning. I sit down next to an older couple and for a few minutes enjoy the light breeze while watching sailing boats and jet skis cruising up and down the Tejo. Then, the piercing sound of the high note in “My heart will go on” catches my attention. I notice a nearby catamaran and realize that there is some kind of karaoke party going on there. Maybe that’s just me but isn’t it an interesting song choice for any boat ride??

I decide it’s time to head to higher grounds and continue my walk to Bairro Alto. My goal is to find the view point I’ve seen yesterday from the other hill while walking around Alfama. The walk takes quite a bit longer than I anticipated, as there are just too many pretty streets to check out and gorgeous tiles to photograph. Nevertheless, I make it to Jardim de São Pedro de Alcântara in time to watch the last rays of sunshine enlighten the roofs of Alfama.

It is here that I experience some sort of epiphany while confronting myself with my health condition. Under the influence of a sudden rush of adrenaline and/or dopamine, I make my way to the restaurant I want to dine at. Luckily it’s only about 5 minutes away. However, when I get to Boa-Bao I see a loong line of people waiting outside and the terrace seems to be full. But I’m not in a rush and so I join the queue, thinking that this is the line to get a table.

But boy was I wrong. This turns out to only be the queue to put down your name and then be told “Please come back in an hour”. As I’ve already selected what I want to have for dinner in my mind, I accept the facts and set my alarm for 9pm. Thinking about what I could do with the spare time, I find myself walking back to the viewpoint. When I get there, I see a small bistro and promptly stop to grab a beer to go. I find another park bench to sit on and watch the now blue sky turn darker and darker.

At 9pm sharp I head back to the restaurant and am confronted with yet another queue. I see a few familiar faces and realize that all these people have been told to “come back at 9pm” too. Now rather hungry, I wait for another 20 minutes until I finally get a table. At least I don’t have to waste any time looking at the menu and as I sit down order the “Bao Uau“ & “Eddy’s Hanoi Pho”. While I wait for my dinner to arrive, I look around the location and am impressed with the attention to detail they’ve put together this Pan-Asian gem.

Delighted with my dinner choice I dig into the soup and slurp on my Pisco sour with a twist. Not even the ever-complaining Germans seated behind me can spoil my evening now. For a second, I consider having a desert, just because I want to make the most of my stay at the restaurant. But with a sincere listen to my full stomach, I waive the thought away. Instead, I go on a digestive stroll through the now much quieter Bairro Alto.