Tapas and architecture

Sevilla, Spain – September 2021

Almost missing the connecting bus from Albufeira to Sevilla because of my lack of Portuguese skills really sets the mood for my last days in Spain. Finally, I can understand the people around me again (and they me), the food is good and life for me, in general, more relaxed. During the 5-hour journey, I chat with the Spanish couple sitting next to me and watch the vast landscape change as we get closer to Sevilla.

Leaving the bus station in Sevilla, the blasting sun and dry heat hits me like a wall and I am suddenly glad that I am only staying here for 1 night. I decide to spend the afternoon in the not so comfortable but climatized dorm at my hostel. At around 6pm I eventually cannot oppress the urge to explore anymore and so I head out into the historic town centre.

In the shadow of the canvas covering the narrow streets, I walk past the giant windows of well-known fast-fashion brands. Heading east, they lead me to the famous landmark “Las Setas”. The wooden structure provides much-needed shade and a gorgeous view of Sevilla. I hang out next to a group of local teenagers for a while and then continue my hunt for the best Tapas place in town.

As I am walking towards the eastern end of central Sevilla, I am distracted by yet another picturesque alley. I can’t help myself and turn left, heading all the way up to the “Alameda de Hércules”. The park is bustling with parents watching out for their kids on the playgrounds, couples taking pictures in the evening sunlight and friends meeting up at the countless Tapas bars. By now fairly hungry and craving a glass of cold Sangría, I return south and towards the centre.

It seems like my inner clock finally aligned with the Spaniards’ – by now all the nice Tapas bars are filled with people and now available tables in sight. And so I end up at the cute, but rather touristy & therefore more expensive “Agustín & Company Bar de Tapas”. Another walk through the city’s shopping district brings me back to my hostel and pleasantly air-conditioned room. Having booked my entrance to the “Alcázar” for 10.30am the next morning, I already dread to get back out into the summer heat.

However, the Alcázar’s beautiful gardens provide an abundance of shady readying spots, some of which even allow forgetting about the mass of tourists exploring the medieval palace. After a couple of failed attempts at taking pictures of the stunning tilework covering the arcades I call it a day and head back out into the ever-bustling old town. As I leave the palace, there is a film crew getting ready to shoot what appears to be a period piece. Horse carriages are lined up and men wearing knight’s costumes and holding spears make way to photographing tourists.

I leave the royals behind and go on the last walk through the narrow alleys of Old Sevilla. Picking up the water bottle I left behind at the Tapas place last night, I find another small restaurant providing me with the classic mix of Croquetas, Tortilla Española y Cerveza. And just like that, it is time to leave yet another city behind and take yet another bus. This time the destination is: Granada. The view of the mountains of the Sierra Nevada sure makes for a magnificent backdrop for the last long-distance bus ride I’ll take in a while.