Thailand – August 2022
After a night on the flight from Zurich to Thailand I arrive in Bangkok at 5.30am. I disembark from the plane, still half asleep, and make my way to the passport check. Fortunately, the airport isn‘t too busy and I quickly receive my 30 day entry stamp. My backpack is already waiting for me on the luggage conveyer belt too and I am out in the arrivals hall a mere 40 minutes after landing. The next challenge is getting to my hostel in Chinatown. It‘s 6.30am when I stand in front of the ticket machine at the airport‘s AirLink station.
Of course, I cannot pay by card – I‘m not in Europe anymore – and first need to get some cash. There are ATMs located conveniently around the corner, but I will not be fooled into paying a horrendous transaction fee. I‘d much rather pay that to the exchange machine next to the ATM and insert a 20 USD bill. The machine ejects 6 crisp 100 Bath bills and off I am to the ticket machine. I take my 70 Bath change and the token needed to pass the security gate and head to the train.
So far, so good. The train starts to get a bit more crowded with commuters as we race to the city. Most of them get off at Makkasan station like me. I let the crowd of Thai office workers and school girls sweeps me to close by Phetchaburi Metro Station. After passing the „No Durian Allowed“- sign, I buy another 1 USD ticket for the journey to Bangkok Railway Station. This train ride passes just as smoothly and quietly as the one before – I am glad to be back in Asia.
Now follows the part I dreaded most. I have to leave the air-conditioned station and step out into the humid morning. I prepare myself by taking off the linen shirt I‘m wearing and lightly wrapping it around my shoulders. But even with this precaution, the 10-minute walk along a small canal is enough to get me all sweaty. I arrive at the cute Time Sabai 23 Hostel with beads of perspiration on my forehead. If this is the weather at 7.30am, how is it going to be in the afternoon?!
The two girls in the lobby do their best to get me checked in – but there seems to be a language barrier. Finally, they call their supervisor and at 7.45am, I get to rest in my comfy bed with a locker and curtain. I fall asleep immediately and wake up hours later, in a state of disorientation. Finally ready to tackle this whole new continent (& my to-do list), I get up and confidently head out into Bangkok‘s busy traffic. I catch a local bus at Rama II street to World Central.
Navigating Bangkok by bus is quite easy. The schedules on Google Maps are quite accurate, and the bus stops with the blue signposts cannot be missed. There are almost always a number of locals waiting there too, and if they speak English they will be happy to help you out. Drivers will only stop when flagged down or if someone is getting off. The fee of 8B (no AC) or 13B (with AC) is collected by the conductor on the bus. To stop, simply press one of the red buttons.
Having mastered that first Southeast Asian bus ride, I arrive at the western-style mall, where I‘m on a mission. Fortunately, there are maps of each of the mall‘s 7 floors. I localize the optician on floor 3 where I order new contacts. On the way back out, I also manage to buy some face masks and a power adaptor. I finish this journey with a visit to the street food market in front of the mall and then hop on a bus which takes me back to Chinatown. Just as I hop off the bus opposite Depsirin School, the first monsoon rain surprises me. So I quickly run to the hostel.
Now it‘s time to get some work done. I just started to freelance as a copywriter and have a deadline of 2 weeks. At around 8pm, I hear some of the other people in my dorm talk about their plans for the night. I join in, and we decide to pay the famous Khao San Road a visit before heading to the night market at Sampeng Lane. Unfortunately, we‘ve missed the last bus and therefore resort to taking a taxi. On the way, I get to see the first temples and I feel like I‘ve finally arrived in Thailand.
Clara, Erhan and I stroll down the bar street in awe. It‘s impossible to take it all in. The neon signs, the people, the smell of street food, the vendors selling grilled Scorpios on sticks or bracelets with offensive words and last but not least: the music blasting from every single shop! On Erhan‘s wish we resort to a small 420 café at the end of the street and get some brownies and something to smoke. We enjoy the quiet pop music they‘re playing and chat while waiting for Eleni.
Once the Welsh girl arrives, we go look for a bar Clara has heard of. It‘s supposed to be located just off Khao San Road. But unfortunately, there are no bars to be found in the dark, deserted alley. So we head back to the deafening sounds of all different kinds of music. We sit down at a Reggae place at the end of the street and have a couple of beers. At around 1 am, we decide it‘s time to leave this place behind and head back to Chinatown. On the way, we pass another set of temples and a cute café, whose owner generously lets us use their bathroom. With Eleni as our guide, we smoothly make it to the night market, and I am (once again) overwhelmed.
The sheer amount of stuff sold here is unimaginable. From cheap jewellery to hair ties and stationery, you can find everything. Erhan proposes to the three of us with an empty ring box we find at one stall, and then we head back to the hostel. Fortunately, there is a 7/11 on the way, where I‘m introduced to the travellers‘ favourite late-night snack: Ham & Cheese Sandwiches, toasted for you at the cashier’s counter.
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