The perfect work-away on the Perhentian Islands

Malaysia – September 2022

This place is the whole reason I booked my one-way ticket to Bangkok. After returning to Switzerland from Dubai in April, I was researching volunteering opportunities around the world in order to do something with meaning. I struck gold when I found HelpX and immediately bookmarked several listings, including Crocodile Rock Villas on a tiny island in Malaysia. I love the ocean, and island life has intrigued me for a while. So when I decided to leave Europe in July, it was a no-brainer to contact the lovely family who runs the place, and they kindly offered to host me for the month of September.

Fast-forward to 31 August. I arrive in Kuala Besut late in the evening from Penang and miss the last ferry to Pulau Perhentian Kecil for the day. I text the people from Crocodile Rocks, and they recommend me a place to stay and suggest I simply take the first ferry the next morning. And so I do. The 25-minute boat ride flies by, and I am the first passenger to disembark at Rainforest Beach. I ask Comel Chalet‘s receptionist for directions to Crocodile Rock Villas, and he vaguely points to the left, where I see nothing but lush jungle. I cross the beach and see a small path leading into the forest. A short walk later, I finally arrive at my destination and head up the wooden stairs to my home for the next weeks. I am greeted with breakfast and shown to my private jungle hut where I‘ll stay for the month.

As my first shift starts in the evening, I go to the beach for the first swim in the crystal clear waters of the Thai gulf in the afternoon. I see some crabs sunbathing on the big rocks and a cargo ship delivering food and other essential goods to the small island‘s inhabitants. As there are no streets on the Perhentians, boats are the only mean of transport available. In the evening, I learn everything about the fruit juices I will be making in order to cover my accommodation and meals. I meet the first tropical wildlife in the form of hungry mosquitos and cute Tokay geckos. I only realize how tired I am, once I serve the last guests their Chocolate Biscuit Cake and Banana Toffee, and we start to close the restaurant‘s bamboo blinds.

This first night, like most to come, I am lulled to sleep by the sounds of the jungle and the crashing waves. I do not wake up during the night‘s thunderstorm, and only notice the remains of the pre-monsoon rain when I leave my hut in the morning. After opening the terrace, I prepare the juice bar for the morning service and wait for the first guests to make their way to breakfast. Under the guidance of Atord I cut mangos, pineapples, watermelons, oranges, and ginger into the right size, so they can be processed into delicious juices. With a little help from a Nespresso machine(!) they make the best coffee on the island and the Malaysian tea straight from Cameron highlands doesn‘t disappoint either. Once the restaurant slows down, I eat my omelet with toast while watching the waves.

At around 11am, when all the guests have left, I head back to my room to change into my swimsuit. During the afternoon, I usually walk down the jungle path and explore the different beaches of Pulau Kecil (or Small Island). My favorite one to relax is Mira Beach (also known as Keranji Beach). It‘s only a 10 minutes walk away from Crocodile Rock Villas and with a couple of simple wooden huts set up right at the beach really feels like paradise. There is a small reef right at the beach where you can watch the colorful fish through the crystal clear water without even submerging your head into the ocean. And whenever I‘m hungry for Asian food, the bistro at the Keranji Resort is ready to serve delicious curries, fried rice, and banana pancakes. An added bonus is the friendly owner who‘s always down for a chat and the cute cats who sometimes have a nap in my lap during lunch and follow me home.

Another day I decide to venture a little further down the jungle path. As the jungle has a mind of its own and the strong winds frequently make high trees fall, the path is overgrown in some places. The islanders do their best to make it passable, but sometimes you simply have to walk around some fallen trees. And that day passing the overgrowth leads me to the most perfect „Cast Away“-like hidden beach, that I have all to myself. I chill on the rusty abandoned float with breaking wooden planks and watch the clouds floating by high above me. Hours later I return to the bistro, recharged and ready for the dinner service. I mix more fruit juices and prepare more delicious desserts. While the guests mostly choose Westernized dishes like the Chicken Burger, we enjoy Sue‘s Thai and Malay cooking. I will never forget her curries and the Nasi Lemak.

With the end of September, the season‘s end comes closer, too. While the rains become more frequent and heavier, the number of tourists decreases. We spend the last evenings playing Scrabble to pass the time between orders. Fortunately, the family and I are exactly on the same wavelength, and we share our sense of humor. So we‘re never bored and always have something to talk about. Be it them teaching me about Malay and the island‘s customs. Or sharing our best (and worst) hospitality stories. When the last guests check out, we celebrate with a burger night and the next day they leave for the mainland to take care of administrative work. As I‘m not ready to leave the island behind yet, I gladly accept their offer to stay for a few more nights to enjoy some free days. I make the most of the time trekking on the big island, snorkelling with turtles, and going on dives off the islands.

*As I‘m writing this, I‘m in the north of Laos, far away from the ocean. I could go on and on about my love for island life and the ocean. So stay tuned for the next part to learn more about what I did on my days off on Pulau Perhentian.