2 weeks in Kusatsu Onsen

Japan – 2022/2023

I spontaneously decided to travel to Japan a month before I was originally supposed to while still in Laos. At that time, the „how will I afford 3 months in Japan“-part was a problem for future me. And when it became a more pressing matter, I decided to apply for another HelpX stay. To read about my first volunteering experience on the Perhentian Islands, click here. While looking through the different options, Kusatsu Onsen caught my attention due to its proximity to Tokyo and the small ski resort. Somehow, the fact that it‘s one of the most renowned Hot Spring Resorts in the country completely slipped my mind. (If you have read my “Ode to Onsen“-post, you know how much I love a relaxing hot spring bath.) That is, until I arrive at the bus station and make my way to the guest house I will be helping at. First, I pass a very inviting Izakaya with a sign in the window that reads: „Does who do not drink, keep out. Does who do not speak Japanese, keep out.“ And then just around another corner, I reach the center of the small town: the Yubatake.

It‘s a big field, where the piping hot water from the natural springs at the foot of the local volcano is collected and cooled down by the cold winter air. From the waterfall at the bottom of the small slope, the now only 60° C warm water is distributed to the various public bathhouses. Located just next to the Yubatake is a 7-11, which is the go-to destination to satisfy any late-night cravings. Adelina, the girl whom I share a room and housekeeping duties with, and I head there on more than one occasion. Several times we find ourselves sitting at one of the free foot baths with a delicious snack in our hands and our feet soaking in hot water. Most nights, a group of young guys come up to us at some point, trying to practice their English or inviting us to drinks and onsen. On New Year’s Eve I also end up at the foot baths with 2 guests. After our feet have been recorded for national TV, we head up to the local Shrine for Hatsumode to follow the Japanese custom of the first prayer of the year.

But let’s get to the best part of Kusatsu Onsen. The free public bath houses. There are dozens of them, but only 3 are advertised for tourists. My personal favourite out of the three is Jizo-no-yu. It’s located away from the main street and therefore less visited. Here, the changing area and the basins are in the same room and the ceilings are very high, which makes it the biggest of the lot. I come here on my very first night in Kusatsu with a couple of guests from the guest house. That night the water is way too hot for me, but just after a week, I dip like a pro My other go-to for a quick evening soak is Chiyo–no-yu. It’s a very small bathing house close to the town center and can easily get crowded. And finally we have Shirahata-no-yu, located directly by the Yubatake, which makes it the most frequented of the three. The advantage here is the 2 different temperature tubs. What you have to keep in mind: there are no showers in the free onsen and the water is very hot! 45°C+.

There are multiple hotels and Ryokan with their own in-house-onsen. Some do offer day-spa tickets to outsiders. But the most economic option is to visit one of the public paid onsen. Otaki-no-yu is a favourite of many, due to the 4 different temperature tubs. It also sports an outdoor bath with a big waterfall wall, a café and a Tatami resting area. The second one is Goza-no-yu, my favourite for a lazy afternoon. There is a big Togen Tatami room with a view of the Yubatake where you can rest, snack or scroll on your phone however long you’d like. The bath itself is quite spacious and the male and female sections switch sides every other day. Finally, my favourite in this category has to be the outdoor bath at Sainokawara park. Though it doesn’t offer showers or a resting area, the view and beautifully arranged pool with all-natural elements make up for it. As you can see, each of the three has different points going for them, and I highly recommend buying an Onsen pass. It allows you to enter all three on any day you’d like at a discount rate.

As I mentioned in the beginning, what I was most looking forward to in Japan was skiing. After getting a bit carried away with the Onsen, I finally only make it to the ski resort 1 time. On 31 December, I take the free shuttle bus from the bus terminal up to the ticket office. I rent a ski set including boots at a small hut in the parking area. Fully equipped, I head to the ski lift area. There are a lot of people, mostly Asian and from what it looks like on the beginner end of the experience spectrum. I decide to check out the slopes further up Mt. Shirane. As I suspected, there are a lot fewer people and I ride up and down the hill for around 2 hours. In need of a break, I check out the local rest house, order a bowl of chicken Karage and eat it out in the sun while thinking about how I’d be eating Swiss Mac’n’Cheese if I were at home now. I take advantage of the good weather and ski until sunset. With the sun gone, it quickly starts to get cold. So I return my skis and head home.

On the way back to the center, the image of a delicious-looking waffle cone with cream and strawberries draws me into one of my favourite cafés in Kusatsu: Watowa. I come back here on multiple occasions to enjoy a cup of Belgian hot chocolate and their Apple cake. The second café I frequent is the Art Café at Sainokawara park. Apart from good coffee, they also have pretty postcards! For a cheap takeaway cup of a hot beverage, I head to Quatre Frère a the bottom of the Yubatake. Speaking of takeaway: of course I couldn’t forget the small street food stalls, serving Yakitori and Mochi and such, that are distributed all over town. One that stands out is the small shop selling traditional Manju as Omiyage (Japanese souvenirs). As I was luckily able to cook at the guesthouse, I only went out for lunch a few times. Those days I treated myself to delicious Zaru Soba with Tempura at Hakukoutei and Yasuragitei.

Like this, my two-week stay in Kusatsu Onsen pass incredibly quickly. To thank me for my help, the hosts take me out to an Izakaya (one with a less aggressive way of telling customers they don’t speak English) for my last meal with them. We enjoy a bottle of very tasty Sake and Mushroom Nabe (Japanese Hot Pot). They let me order Karage too and by the end of the meal, suggest we go for another Izakaya where they play Karaoke. Intrigued, I accept the offer. But unfortunately, the bar is closed. So another Izakaya is found, and we soon sip on the cold beers, while chatting about my future plans in Japan. On the way back to the guest house, it’s snowing once again. The large, soft falling flakes turn the anyways beautiful Yubatake into a magical sight. I stop by one of the foot baths to fully absorb the blissful atmosphere for a last time before returning to bustling Tokyo the next day with the Expressway bus.