Exploring Costa Blanca’s Calas

Spain – June 2022

Between Valencia and Alicante, you can find one of my favourite coastlines in Spain: the Costa Blanca. Its name translates to White Coast in English and there couldn’t be a better description. The cliffs that form the countless Calas (bays) are made from white rocks and provide a magnificent background for lazy days spent sunbathing, swimming or with any other water activity. But don’t forget your pair of sandals or rubber shoes! The reason for the clear blue water is that the ground is only rocks and no sand. That’s also why you see many locals bringing beach chairs for a more comfortable experience.

The first Cala I explore is the easily accessible Cala Blanca in Jávea. However, I find it to be a bit too exposed and crowded. So I continue to walk through the picturesque stone arch and along the water until I reach La Caleta de dins. It’s a wide bay with plenty of suitable big rocks to spend a lazy afternoon on. There are groups of locals who came from Valencia for a day trip, a French family on holiday with their kids, a Spanish couple from the north, and a few older people soaking up the sun. I find a large rock, which is situated on a natural pier separating the calm waters of the bay from the waves of the Mediterranean Sea. I place my towels on it and begin to unwrap the sandwich I brought for lunch.

A few days later, I’m back on the first bus to Cala Blanca. But this time I don’t stop here. I continue to walk up the tree-lined street, taking me to one marvelous viewpoint of the cobalt sea after another. About 45 sweaty minutes later, I arrive at Creu del Portitxol which overlooks Cap de Sant Martí. From here it‘s a downhill stroll through the national park to the Cala del Portitxol. It‘s hard to choose a trail because all of them potentially lead to amazing views of the different bays. I end up walking all the way to the Mirador del Portitxol and from there descend on a steep trail leading down to the rocky beach.

As it’s just past midday by now, there are already a number of people spread out on their striped bath towels. The locals are easily distinguishable from the tourist due to their professional set up including low beach chairs, umbrellas, coolers for drinks and lunch, water shoes and snorkeling gear. They effortlessly enter the water when it‘s time for a break from the sun. Tourists like myself stagger barefoot across the hot pebbles only to then trip on slippery rocks and inelegantly fall into the low tide. As it‘s still a refreshing change from the burning sun, I repeat this process several times.

Another day trip leads me to Calpe. The beach town between Jávea and Benidorm is famous for its long beaches and the Natural Reserve of Penyal d‘Ifac. The huge rock is visible from high up on the curvy mountain street leading down to the ocean. And safe to say, its sight is even more impressive when you‘re standing at the bottom of the park. Armed with only 1 litre of water, I begin the hike through the park, seeking the shadow of the different kinds of trees. The heat is soon getting to me and I actually consider turning around before without traversing the highlight of the hike: the tunnel leading THROUGH the rock.

But fortunately, after a quick break to enjoy the view of the two bays with crystal clear water far below me, I decide to continue the adventure. While the short tunnel provides much-needed shade, its lack of illumination and the incline combined with slippery stone makes it a challenge to reach the ocean side of the Penyal. But eventually, I make it back out into the light and am greeted with the most incredible view. A small, sandy trail meanders along the cliffs, which are dotted with rocks and small needle trees. Birds circle above me as I hike on the unpaved path to the very edge of the peninsula.

The search for a beautiful place to watch the sunset in Jávea leads me up to Cap de Sant Antoni. Its cliffs tower high above the port side of the small town. The sandy trails leading to Cala Tango and the top of the cape are narrow and at times covered in rocks you have to climb across. The paths slowly wind up one side of the hill, then deep into a valley, and back to the ocean on the next cliff. This makes it a nice late afternoon hike without too many other visitors. While this is something I usually look for, in this particular case, I suddenly became a bit paranoid on the way back down. With the night falling fast and no other people around, I couldn‘t help but think that this would be the perfect setting for a crime. Fortunately, I make it back safely to my hotel and fall asleep to the sound of the crashing waves.