Jeju Olle Trail – Week 3

South Korea – March 2023

If you read my blog posts about my first week on the Jeju Olle Trail, you know that I’ve been struggling with the physical aspects of long-distance hiking. While the pain in my lower body subsides after the second hiking week, I have to face another set of struggles. Accustomed to daily trot & scenery, and no one to talk to, I have plenty of time to think about life and the choices I’m making. One of which is an incredible job opportunity. But am I ready for it? On more than one occasion I’m ugly crying while hiking and when it all gets too overwhelming, I resort to distracting myself with podcasts.

So let’s start at Route 10. After an evening around the campfire, I start my hiking day early to think about big life decisions.I can’t really enjoy the archaeological site by the sea.And also the village where I buy gimbap for lunch at the convenience store, I leave unimpressed.This is followed by a strenuous walk around the Songaksan peak with a great view of the sea and Mount Sanbang.The many steps that I go up and down are physically challenging.

The constant back and forth of my thoughts on how I want to continue living my life in the future challenges me mentally. So I distract myself with a few episodes of the comedy podcast “We’re having gay sex.” Until I come to a sign announcing a “Dark Tourism” zone.A nondescript dirt road leads to a 4.3 genocide memorial.But the following path is also dedicated to the reunification of North and South Korea.I finally arrive in Daejeong exhausted, but without pain in legs or back.

The next day I make a trip to the small island Gapado. There, the only 4-kilometer long Route 10-1 zigzags along the sea and across fields. On the way to the ferry port I buy a garlic bread in a bakery. Arriving at the harbor, I track down Eric, whom I met at the very beginning of my hike at the Africa Guesthouse. He works for the Marado Gapado shipping company and has free tickets for me. A short ferry ride later we arrive in the cute fishing village.

Most Korean tourists rent bicycles to explore the island. I follow the blue arrows of the Jeju Olle Trail and walk along the sea. Then the trail turns left and I find the sea of yellow flowers on the highest point of the island, which some people have already told me about.On the Jeju side of the island, I come across old Haenyeo (female divers) who collect their spoils in baby carriages.I continue to ponder job decisions and wait for the ferry to the main island. On the way back to my guesthouse I get a juice at the “Rich Mango” café.

After a second night in the Sunflower Guesthouse, I continue on Route 12. I skip Route 11, because there is again no suitable accommodation at the end of the route. So I drive with the minibus into the interior. While I go from the starting point back towards the sea, I cry practically the whole day. I can’t really enjoy the country road, which leads to the coast past cabbage fields and an oreum with pretty flowers. I climb several hills until I am rewarded by the breathtaking view of “carved” cliffs on the coastal path.

A group of Koreans whizzes past me on scooters down the coastal road. It leads directly to a fishing village, where I am once again greeted by squid drying on a clothesline. Since there is no convenience store in the village and I don’t have the mental strength to talk to anyone, I just eat cookies for lunch. More hills follow until I finally reach the modern windmills that can be found around my accommodation. I check into the Warang Guesthouse and make instant noodles for dinner. When the host sees me in the kitchen, he spontaneously offers me homemade mandus.

I extend my stay at Warang Guesthouse for another night because I like the atmosphere and I finally have to make a decision about my professional future. Since it is Sunday, I call family and friends to see their view and then take a short walk to the sea. It is warm and I put on shorts for the first time in months. In the evening I go for another walk, buy Ramyeon at 7-11 and eat the noodles on the terrace at sunset with playing dogs next to me.

Route 14. the finishing stretch begins on April 3, the 74th anniversary of the genocide on Jeju. I take the bus again to the starting point of the route. Finally, I can enjoy the field and forest paths again without any worries. The blossoming cherry trees make even a stinking factory somehow worth seeing. At a canal I cross several times an old Korean couple. The last time I see them is in the beach town: Hyeopjae Beach. Here water with color like in the Caribbean meets western France dunes. I eat my gimbap on the beach and then continue through several port villages.

A colorful temple at the entrance to Hanlim and an equally colorful bridge finally greet me at the end point for today. A man who sees me stamping my diary is so impressed by my endeavor that he wants to take a photo of me. I then check into the Sodam Guest House and, after a refreshing shower, head out for an evening stroll. I walk through the covered market to the large harbor where numerous fishing boats of all sizes are tied up. The sunset seems somehow threatening because of the upcoming thunderclouds. So I go back to the hotel before the storm starts.

The second to last day of hiking takes me on Route 15A. The country path is lined with fields and brightly painted silos. Around 11am the sky becomes very overcast and I seek refuge in a temple for an early lunch. Afterwards, more field and forest paths follow, in very windy weather. After crossing several hills, I reach a small community. I am looking at the forest park next to the school, when I suddenly notice the smell of “Tiki”, which reminds me of my childhood. I continue past oreums and a manderine plantation until I reach the bus stop on the ring road, where EunHa hands me my remaining luggage.

I attack my last route (#16). But first I have to walk an hour up the hill from Hagwi to the starting point. There I buy my lunch at 7-11 and follow the orange arrows towards the sea. Fortunately, it’s all downhill from here, and it’s much easier to walk without a backpack. I try to enjoy all the cute villages with their colorful roofs extensively. The loud barking country dogs are a bit annoying, but a park with great views and lunch at an old well with goldfish make up for it.

In the afternoon I climb the last Oreum and then walk along the coastal path towards Aewol. On the way, I look at the natural salt pans that the water has washed into the rough rocks. Over some small hills, I finally reach the harbor village, where I pick up my last stamp. The way up to the bus stop leads through an actual olle path and I have the feeling to have found a good conclusion for the long-distance hike.

Epilogue: I didn’t really prepare for the hike. Yes, I read the book “The Island of Sea Women” and knew something about the historical significance of Jeju Island. But as for hiking for several days without any company, I was completely unprepared. Even though I enjoy spending time alone and have no problem traveling alone, this endeavor was challenging. I also had to learn to listen to my body. To give it breaks when it needed them, but also when I could accomplish more than I might have thought. And I also learned an incredible amount about South Korea. I’m glad Jeju-Do was my first stop in this fascinating country.