Ischia: Capri’s big sister

Italy – May 2022

Before my last trip to Italy, I was influenced by an Italian Netflix show and firmly resolved to visit the island of Procida. It is touted as the new “Capri” and is accessible by boat from Napoli. However, when I arrive in the city known primarily for its good pizza, I realize that the day trip to Procida might not be as relaxing as I thought. The island is very small and because in Italy at the time generally very many tourists are on the road, I fear a big rush in the small town. So I decide spontaneously but still the 30 minutes longer trip to the neighboring island of Ischia to buy.

I take the ferry at 09:25 from the port in Napoli and get to see Procida on the way after all. Arrived in Ischia, I make my way to the bus terminal, as I want to visit some Roman thermal baths on the opposite side of the island. I soon find what I am looking for and buy a day ticket (worth 2 rides) for the ring route. Not sure which bus number to take, I just ask the drivers of each vehicle if they go to Forio. Eventually I find the right one and squeeze into the fortunately air-conditioned bus with countless other tourists and residents.

The ride drags on and I can hardly wait to get off in Sant’Angelo. But first we pass small villages with narrow streets, where the Italian temperament of bus drivers, passengers and oncoming Vespa owners often comes out loudly. We pass olive trees and every now and then I catch glimpses of the dark blue sea. Then, finally, it goes slowly down the winding road to the small coastal village of Sant’Angelo. The bus stops just before the village entrance and most of the passengers get off. Just like me, they walk down the steps between the white painted houses.

Many are drawn to the piazza, where various restaurants are busy serving lunch. I have already eaten a late breakfast on the way and go directly on to the sea. I stop only briefly at the small harbor and then move further east. My path to Terme di Cavascura leads up the slope and winds between small resorts and hotels along the coast. The view of the Mediterranean is fantastic and apart from a few electric golf carts I’m all alone. After about a kilometer I finally reach the turnoff inland.

There I see first the tavern Pietro Paolo at the front of the house a large sign in German welcomes the guests. When I turn right, I overhear some conversations of my compatriots. Only few minutes later I reach the entrance to the Terme and read disappointedly that I come exactly to the lunch break. Nevertheless, I ask briefly at the cash desk, where the employee explains to me that currently only no massages are made. So I choose on the appointment menu the variant “Roman bath” and am led after paying further into the gorge.

There another employee is waiting for me, who asks me to leave my bag in the changing room and to put on my bathing suit. When I step out of the small cave again in my bikini, he asks me which of the rock bathtubs I would like to use. All of them bear the names of Roman emperors and I decide on Tiberio. The employee immediately gets to work and seals the pipe after my tub with a stone. Then he opens both the pipe of the naturally heated water supply and that of the cool fresh water. The water runs down the slope in the small pit and splashes into my chosen tub.

The employee asks me if the temparaturso fits and shows me after I affirm, the natural shower and the sauna. I take an ice-cold shower under the small waterfall and then try a short sauna session. However, it is so hot in the dark cave that I can’t stand it for more than 10 seconds with the best will in the world. Quickly I’m back outside and check the state of my bathtub. Fortunately, it is already almost filled and I climb carefully down into the narrow stone pit.

The water temperature is very pleasant and the floor of the bath is even equipped with a stone elevation which is probably intended as a pillow. I lie down and pull the white linen curtain for a little more privacy. Certainly 30 minutes pass before I drag myself up and take another shot at the sauna. This time I hold out a little longer, but I’m glad when I’m back in my tub. Another 30 minutes pass and then it’s time for me to start the way back. I change again in the cave and thank the bath attendants. Then I go deeply relaxed the narrow way down to the sea.

The path along the Spiaggia dei Maronti is longer than I thought, but there are not many people bathing and I make a few stops before I go up the slope in the small beach town to the next bus stop. Since there seems to be no official timetable, I ask 2 men smoking in front of the convenience store if you know when the next bus is coming. “He comes when he comes” they say. Island life just. So I sit down on a stone and wait. Fortunately not long, already about 10 minutes later the blue bus turns around the corner. I get on and we race towards Ischia. Arrived there I still have 1.5 hours until my ferry goes back to the mainland.

The search for a restaurant brings me once again back to the beach. Since the main season has not yet begun, I am again almost alone in the beach bar, where I order delicious bruschetta. After chatting briefly with the owner, I make my way to the next bay, where I find the port. There I buy the return ticket for the ferry, which is already ready to board. Together with an Italian youth orchestra I climb the steps to the sun deck. The young musicians listen to my silent request to accompany the trip with a serenade.

Soon a cellist, a contrabass player and trombonist improvise together next to the foghorn and partly even drown out the engine. This time the ferry does not stop in Procida and we sail around the island on the south side. So we only get to see the steep cliffs before Vesus in the distance takes over the main role of the view again.