Kazakhstan – August 2023
The bus tour adventure begins with an Instagram post from Gornotravel, which my Kazakh friend Gauhar, who currently lives in Germany, forwarded to me. The overnight trip is described in Russian under a picture of a tent under a starry sky. Departure is on Saturday at 1.30 p.m. from Almaty, including bus trip to the Bestjubinskoje reservoir with a stop at Charyn Canyon, 2 meals and camping equipment. The return is planned for Sunday afternoon and the fun costs the equivalent of around 25 euros per person.
I send my question to the WhatsApp number provided as to whether it’s okay if I don’t speak Russian. I receive the answer immediately: The guide doesn’t speak English, but I’m welcome to go along if that’s not a problem for me. I book my place on the bus and promise to bring the amount in cash in Teinge on the day of the excursion. The Saturday in question is a hot summer day and I head to the meeting point early. Several times in the taxi I consider not going because the idea of spending 24 hours in the middle of nowhere with people whose language I don’t speak is somehow very intimidating.
When I arrive at the bus parking lot, I see different groups of people with some more, some less camping equipment standing in front of an old German coach. In the shade of a tree I observe the situation until I’m sure that the guy with hiking boots is the guide. I show him the IG post and say my name. He confirms that this is the bus and shows me my seat: number 1, directly behind the driver. Here I wait in the air-conditioned vehicle for a while, then 3 young Kazakhs sit down next to me.
When the guide finally gets on and gives a speech in Russian, I ask them if they speak English and could translate for me. They say yes and explain that we would have to wait about 40 minutes until the guy with the rest of the equipment arrives. Relieved that at least the three of them have a language in common with me, I get an iced coffee while I wait. 1 hour later we leave. But we don’t get far. The guide has just announced the division of the bus into a “quiet zone” at the front and a “talkative zone” at the back when we speed towards an intersection and hit a stationary car from behind. Luckily everyone has already sat down in their new seats and no one is injured.
But we all get out because we are now waiting for the police who have to record the damage. After another hour of waiting, we finally drive out of the city. There is another stop at a supermarket where snacks and water can be purchased. The Russian woman named Elena, who is now sitting next to me, lends me her fan because the heat in the stationary vehicle is almost unbearable. But soon we benefit again from the wind, which, thanks to the driver’s open window, is far more effective than the air conditioning at 80 km/h on the country roads. Everyone is dozing and only after about 3 hours of driving, when we are already far out in the steppe, does the entertainment program begin with a karaoke session.
During a final toilet stop at a small corner shop in the middle of nowhere, I watch a few donkeys rolling in the dust next to the road. A short time later we drive through Charyn Canyon to the sounds of 50 Cent’s “Candy Shop”. Everyone is now singing along loudly to the playlist of English, Russian and Italian hits from the past decades. We drive past some smaller settlements and the landscape changes from dry steppe to lush meadows in front of rocky mountains. The bus driver has to scare horses, cows and goats off the road several times while honking.
And then, hidden in a valley behind hills, we reach the Bestyubinskoye reservoir. We unload our luggage on the lawn and Elena motions for me to follow her. She carries a tent bag under her arm and holds out two sleeping bags to me. We quickly set up our sleeping place and then set off for a sunset walk. Luckily, the storm clouds coming from the east are moving away and moving towards Kyrgyzstan. But they ensure that a beautiful rainbow appears behind the yurts on the other side of the river. With the shepherds rounding up the horses, it’s a fantastic sight and I’m already happy with the trip.
Up on the hill west of camp, the view of the lake and the sky colored orange by the setting sun is equally beautiful. Elena takes photos of me in the best places and then explains to me in a mix of Russian and English that the whole area here is volcanic rock. Another group of young Kazakhs ignores us and asks in good English where I come from. A lively conversation immediately ensues between Elena, me and the students. Because it’s getting darker (and cold) quickly, we change back in the tent and then head to the campfire.
Potatoes are being diligently cut here and hot water is boiled. Soon we’re sipping tea and eating quyrdak – in this case fire-roasted potatoes and chicken with lots of onions. The clouds have cleared and we search the night sky for star constellations. Even the Milky Way can be seen too clearly. Then I am invited by 2 different groups to take part in the subsequent music quiz. Knowing full well that I won’t be of much help in guessing the Russian hits and musicians, I still say yes and sit in the circle by the fire.
We sing and dance until 2am. Then I slip into the warm sleeping bag and fall asleep immediately. When I wake up, Elena is already on her way to get water. I enjoy the quiet morning hour and watch the horses grazing on the opposite side of the river. Slowly the first heads start to stir from the other tents and soon everyone meets again around the fire for a breakfast of tea and porridge. Then we have to pack everything up and get ready for the journey home. But first a “Kazakh cowboy” from the next settlement pays us a visit and offers his horse for a short ride.
While the camp is being dismantled, the horse trots leisurely up and down with various riders. A few cows are lying in the grass next to the road and are not bothered by the rattling engine of the old Dobler bus. A good hour late, we say goodbye to the boy and make our way back to Charyn Canyon. Luckily our vocal cords are given a break on the first track. Only after the photo stop at the impressive entrance to the canyon does the karaoke party get going again.
When we arrive back in Almaty, the students say goodbye to me and thank me for taking part in the trip. It’s me who has to thank you. For Kazakh hospitality and the chance to experience the country’s beautiful nature and the modern nomadic culture of Central Asia.
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