A trip into the deep Japanese countryside

Japan – April 2024

Since the journey from Kanazawa to Kyotango is quite long, I decide to break it up and spend 1 night at a popular beach destination in Fukui – a prefecture next to Ishikawa, which I haven‘t been to before. First, I hop on the Shinkansen to Tsuruga. The bullet train covers the 131 km distance in roughly 50 minutes. From here the local train on the Obama Line shall take me past rice fields and Samurai houses to Wakasa-Wada.

However, forgetting that local trains don‘t operate with IC cards and ignoring the transfer ticket gate, I head straight for the platform. Only shortly before the train departs, I notice my lack of a ticket and quickly run back to the main departure hall. There I exchange my Shinkansen ticket for a local train one and rush back to the departing train. While the first part of the 2 hours ride is quite peaceful, at Obama the car gets crowded with high school students returning home after class.

Only few of them get off at my station, which is probably due to the small size of Takahama village. I follow the signs leading to the beach and walk to the very end of the main road. Here I find the Umi No Mieruyado Muramiya Ryokan, where I booked a seaview room for the night. But before I retire on the laid out futon, I want to explore the bay on a sunset walk.

The famous swimming beach is located right in front of the hotel. But since it‘s still off-season, it‘s completely empty. The numerous eateries are closed and the sand is covered in debris which were carried across the Sea of Japan by the north wind. The water is cold, which I can tell without stepping in, because a group of young men is screaming at the other end of the beach while taking a late spring dip.

On the way to the other side of the bay the tiny island called Hasegi Shima is always visible. But towards the western edge, it gives more way to the waves, which become higher and remind me of the surfers I‘ve seen on Japan‘s northwestern coast before. But today, I only meet a few older residents who are walking their dogs or enjoying an evening run. I also pass a campground, where a few visitors seem to be ringing in the long weekend with a barbecue.

As the sun disappears behind the clouds, I head to the local convenience store to buy a bento for dinner and then return to the ryokan. I quickly eat, before venturing to the top floor of the building, where I have the public bath completely to myself. After a relaxing soak, I take advantage of my room’s small balcony and enjoy the soothing sound of the waves breaking on the shore.

I wake up early the next day, but still too late to catch the first train to Maizuru. So I have a small breakfast with ocean view and then make my way to the National Route 27, where I hope to find a ride to Nishi-Maizuru Station. I soon find the perfect hitchhiking spot – an entrance to a parking lot with plenty of space to stop. And the sign announcing the upcoming towns is helpful tol, since I don‘t have cardboard to write my destination on.

After waiting for 20 minutes and almost giving up, a red car pulls over from the opposite direction. The middle-aged driver rolls down the window and (in decent English) asks where I’m going. I reply in Japanese, and he confirms that he’s headed that way. After briefly assessing his genuinity and car, I put my backpack in the trunk and get into the backseat. As we drive towards the highway, he offers me some milk bread and chewing gum.

I learn that he just finished his shift at the gas station and is looking forward to a day off. Making sure that I arrive on time to catch my train, he takes a little detour to drop me at the right station entrance. I buy a ticket at the Tantetsu Miyama-Miyatoyo line vending machine and board the 1-car-train for Shoutenkyo.