South Korea – June 2023
I choose the destination for my second month working remotely for a Japanese company based on the availability on Airbnb. I’m looking for a studio apartment close to the sea when finally a lady in Okpo on Geoje Island accepts my request. A few weeks later, upon returning to Korea from Taiwan, I take the southbound highway bus from Seoul. I get off at the main bus terminal in Geoje City and transfer to a local commuter bus for the last stretch across the island. During the drive, I think to myself that it’s larger than I expected. But the bus system and landscapes remind me of Jeju island, so I immediately sense some familiarity.
I easily locate the small apartment building on a side street and follow the instructions to enter the unit. After putting away my luggage in the bedroom, I inspect the small kitchen. While I check the rice cooker, stove and fridge, someone rings the doorbell and I find one of the neighbours, an old lady, outside. Through Google Translate, she informs me that she’s a friend of the person who rents out this apartment and will be available throughout my stay. Before she disappears back into the hallway, she also explains the garbage system through hand gestures. Happy to have my own space for the very first time, I head to the close by discount supermarket to stock up on groceries for the coming week.
I quickly fall into a routine of work, making lunch, more work, and ending the day with a walk to the fishing harbor and the coastal park. Listening to a podcast, I venture down the wooden walkway over the rocky cliffs shortly before sunset. The stark contrast between the deep blue water, the lush green hill, and the giant container ships in the shipyard on the other side of the bay is captivating. No wonder there are lots of people coming here every night. The crowd consists of mostly older Korean couples in fancy workout clothes, but young men on a run and local fishermen too. Sometimes I bring my bento box and eat dinner at the waterfront.
On the Friday of my second week on Geoje Island, I notice something different during my evening walk. On the big square in the Okpo Waterside Park, there seems to be some kind of construction going on. It looks like they are preparing for a big event with a soundcheck and all. Wondering what could possibly be happening in this relatively unknown port town, I continue on toward the wooden walkway. Just after passing the group of old men who play a version of Pétanque, I bump into one of the Korean couples who seem to be coming here often. I ask them if they speak English at all and, to my surprise, both reply with an enthusiastic yes.
I inquire about the event preparations and the wife tells me that there will be a large musical performance and fireworks held throughout the weekend. Very happy to have found someone who can speak English in the countryside, I take the opportunity to find out as much about Geoje as I can. As we continue walking on the narrow wooden quai the husband tells me about his work in the shipyard, which is one of the biggest in all of Korea – if not the world. Most of the region’s economy depends on the manufacturing and maintenance of large container ships. Like many people, the couple has moved here for work. Because of the husband’s job, they have previously spent some time living in Indonesia and Germany, but now feel at home in Okpo.
After so much unexpected information about the island, I totally forget to ask them more about the upcoming festival. When we return to the now bustling waterfront park, our ways part. After helping myself to a flyer with the event timetable, I join the crowd gathered in front of a large screen. I arrive just in time to see a lady wearing a Hanbok – the traditional Korean dress – step on the stage. I don’t understand much of her speech, but the crowd seems to be excited. As soon as the lady disappears backstage, a group of traditional Korean drummers set up their instruments on the stage. Their performance and the racing beats are captivating! Just like the singer who is closing this opening ceremony with a nostalgic love song.
On Saturday, I spend the day exploring other parts of the island, making sure to return to Okpo before 6pm. I quickly take a shower, eat my pre-made dinner and head to the port. Today on the evening program, there are some K-Pop concerts. The organizers of this event really did a great job of satisfying all possible spectators. I personally enjoyed the more traditional songs on Friday a bit more, but a nice touch on this second day is the small flea market that was set up along the waterfront park. So I do some window shopping before heading back home.
On Sunday, I explore yet another beach before following the same routine as on the previous day. But I decide to go to the festival venue a bit before the starting time – after all, today is the grand finale and many visitors are expected. When I arrive at the waterfront park, the action movie soundtrack-like song is already playing again at full volume. Almost all seats in the fenced-off VIP section are taken. The air on this early summer evening is hot and humid, so I try to use the event flyer as a fan. Then the volume of the music is lowered ever so slightly and an important-looking man gets up on the stage. After a short speech, everyone’s attention turns to the large screen where the dramatic image of Admiral Yi Sun-sin appears.
A voice is narrating the story of Admiral Yi Sun-sin’s first victory during the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, while several actors re-enact the transmission of information from one military brigade to another. The historical play lasts for around 30 minutes before the main event begins: Dozens of small boats begin to race out of the fishing harbor in front of the park and out into the bay. Equipped with colored lights, they represent the Korean and Japanese fleets fighting for Okpo. Small fireworks launched from the vessels symbolize the medieval firearms used in the battle.
As the scene evolves, the music intensifies and the whole bay lights up in gold and red. I’ve never seen anything quite like this and feel moved despite having no connection to the historical event from more than 500 years ago. As usual, as soon as the festivities are over, the crowd very quickly dissembles and I head home too. Trying to savour the warm summer evening, I sit on the rooftop of my apartment building for a while, looking at the moonlit starry sky. Once again, I thank the universe for having brought me to this place at this time.
thattravelstory 