Italy – May 2022
I arrive in Tuscany by night train from Palermo, Sicily. Watching the green rolling hills pass by from my private sleeping cabin, I’m excited about my pit stop in the countryside. But to get to Siena, I need to change to the local train in Firenze. Finally, fully awake, I get to enjoy the picturesque scenery straight out of a cheesy romantic comedy movie one more time. Since the medieval town is only 2 hours away from my main destination, Firenze, I could have simply gone there on a day trip. But I want to enjoy the small town by night as well, and I found a cute B&B at an affordable price, where I can check in shortly after my arrival.
It’s late morning and the weather is perfect for an explorative walk around the city. There aren’t any sights that I’m particularly interested in, it’s just the Mediterranean old-town vibe that I want to enjoy. And Siena does not disappoint. I walk up and down cobblestone streets, peek into small allies, and stop at a restaurant with a patio for lunch and an apéritif. After another stop at a Gelateria, I finally make my way to the “Piazzo del Campo”, which is famous for its fan-like stairs surrounding the main square. But there are just too many people and the afternoon sun is burning my head. So I return to my quiet B&B for a short siesta.
Just before sunset, I head back to the heart of the old town for a look at the panorama unfolding behind the medieval city walls. Despite the clouds, the view is stunning, and I only reluctantly return to the main square. But now it’s my rumbling stomach that’s in charge. I actually wanted to eat some Spaghetti Carbonara, but everyone I ask is telling me that I’m in the wrong place for that. And since I always follow food recommendations, I end up at the Osteria il Grattacielo. It’s a tiny restaurant with tables set up in an arched side street, where I order a Tuscan pasta dish with meat sauce and a tiramisu for dessert. Then I call it a night and stroll back to my guesthouse. Something in the air – just briefly – makes me wish to be able to share this moment with someone. But maybe that’s the built-up imagination of the rom-coms I’ve watched.
The next day, I finally make it to Firenze in the morning. I drop my luggage at the Hostel Archi Rossi before checking the notes I received from a fellow traveler on places to see and food to eat in the famous city of arts. His recommendations first lead me across the Amo river at Pescaia di Santa Rosa and up to some viewpoints. I stroll around the rose garden at Giardino Bardini and then reach my final destination of this walk: the Piazzale Michelangelo. While the main attraction on the square is probably the bronze replica of “David”, all 200 other tourists (and I) only have eyes for the pretty view of the city. In the afternoon, I stroll around the old town a bit more, and after a short break at the hostel, I join some girls in my room for dinner.
The next day, I’m on the hunt for more food. During the walk from my accommodation to the city centre, I pass by the famous sandwich shop “All’Antico Vinaio”. Despite the early hour (9.45am Italian time), there is already a long queue. After checking the menu and the prices, I decide to try my luck elsewhere. I continue walking and soon find myself in the area around “Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio”. Since it’s too early for a full lunch, I spend some time reading over coffee at the closeby café “Leonardo Firenze”. Then I head back to the market hall and explore the variety of locally owned food stalls with old Italian ladies selling delicious-looking cheese, cured ham, and pickles. I finally opt for a small meal of meatballs in tomato sauce with a side of fresh bread and zucchini. Sounds basic, but the flavors are incredible.
In the afternoon, I consider following another recommendation, for a visit to “Palazzo Pitti”. Supposedly, this art museum set in a Renaissance palace is a hidden gem compared to the much more famous Uffizi Galleries. However, looking at the crowds in the streets around the old town squares, I don’t feel like joining another long queue to look at art I don’t know much about. So I content myself with a quick glance at another David statue on the Piazza della Signoria, before heading over towards the train station, where my accommodation is located. Wondering which last attraction I could visit today, I consult Google Maps. And somehow I find “Farmacia di Santa Maria Novella”. While I don’t want to buy any perfume, I do enjoy looking at beautiful architecture and interior design.
Very relaxed from the calming scents and classical music, I return to my hostel for a quick shower. In the evening, I have plans to visit another recommended place with the girls in my dorm. We slowly walk to the “Enoteca alla Sosta dei Papi” where we hope to get a glass of cheap and high-quality wine. Unsurprisingly, we are not the only ones with this objective tonight. Arriving at the wine bar, the tables on the sidewalk in front of it are all occupied. However, in one of them, only 1 man is sitting by himself. Before we can ask, he already offers us to share, which we of course accept. We then proceed to quickly getting a glass each of the house wine at 3 Euros – filled to the top!
Then we sit down at the table outside and introduce ourselves to Giovanni. He mentions that he’s waiting for friends for an aperitivo – and shortly after the girls arrive. We chat in broken Italian and English, order more wine and get to know more people sitting down at the joint table. Someone presents a sandwich to the group which is being cut up before we collectively decide that it might be time for dinner. Fortunately, there is a Pizzeria not far down the street. After a quick meal, we head back out into the street. Some of the local girls disappear and Giovanni takes us to another bar in the same street.
We end up staying at Birreria Art. 17 until well past midnight and only start our way back home through the now-empty streets of the old town when the barkeeper has cleaned the sidewalk in front of the pub. Again, it’s something about walking through the empty streets of an ancient town on a warm summer night, that makes me want to stop the time. But with this very Italian last night out in Firenze, my stay brief in Tuscany comes to an end. The next day I quickly pass by the Duomo and only stop at Gelateria la Carraia for a sweet treat before catching a bus in the afternoon. On the way to the northernmost metropolis of Italy, I pass by Bologna and Parma, which make great day trips from Firenze too. But I have apéritif plans with friends in Milano, so these food heavens have to wait for another trip.
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