Switzerland — ca. 2000 to 2023
While thinking about updating the article about my favourite places in Switzerland, I quickly realized that many of them are located around my hometown‘s lake. Lake Lucerne or Vierwaldstättersee in German. So let me share an ode to the dragon lake and birthplace of the Helvetic Confederation. We start our exploration of Central Switzerland in Lucerne, where I was born. The bay where the lake flows into the river Reuss forms the dragon‘s mouth. It is home to the quaint medival old town, the KKL Culture and Congress Centre and the riviera lined with high-end hotels, a casino and the iconic floating bathhouse. The KKL hosts international orchestras in its world renowned concert hall and the bathhouse is a place to soak up the sun on warm summer afternoons – and of course to go for a swim in the cristal clear waters of the lake.
But my personal favourite spots to enjoy the lake in the city are the multiple parks. Be it for a picknick on top of the hill facing the alps, or lounging at the „Ufschötti“ park featuring a small beach. The latter is where I‘d usually meet my friends after a day at school or work. We like to spend the long summer evenings with people watching, occasional refreshing dips in the lake and contemplating life. There are always lots of interesting people at this public space of relaxation. In one corner there are the older singles who judging by their tan spend most of the summer here. There are the families with the kids who may or may not have their first swimming lessons in the lake. And there are the teenagers (and the 20-30-somethings who‘d like to be them) who are playing loud music. Of course, the different groups in the last category can never agree on 1 genre. So depending on the music you want to hear, you choose which area of the park you place your towel at.
Usually the parks get more quiet after sunset, which by the way is a great time to be at the lake. There are multiple bars located in different places along the water. For a casual afterwork drink I often went to Volière or Buvette. A bit further from the city centre there is the Sunset Bar which also serves some snacks. And finally, if we‘re in the mood to splurge, the beach bar at Hotel Montana provides a magnificent view. But my favourite place has to be ON the lake, rather than on its shore. There are regular cruises operating around sunset time during the summer season. The boat ride lasts about 2 hours and takes passengers all the way to Weggis and back. And if you‘re lucky, you know someone who owns a boat on Lake Lucerne.
Sailing with my family is one of my all time favourite activities when I‘m in Switzerland. My dad inherited the boat from his father. He has been sailing since he was 14 years old and I got to learn the basic maneuvers and knots during sunmer afternoons spent on the water. Sometimes my dad calls me when he‘s on the way to the harbour, and asks if I wanted to join. On some of these occasions I happen to be sunbathing at the nearby park with my friends and we swiftly gather our things to hurry over to the boat. When my mom joins too, there is always a selection of snacks and drinks waiting to be devoured. Once out on the water, we zip across the lake following the wind. When we find a quiet bay, we take in the sails and lower the steps in the back of the boat to get into the water for a swim. Sometimes my parents even prepare a full meal to eat on the lake.
But while the private yacht is a nice way to enjoy a leisurly afternoon, it is by no means the most efficent mode of water transport. The size of Lake Lucerne is not to be underestimated! Luckily the local navigation company‘s fleet of historical steamboats and modern motorboats are operating daily to bring passengers to popular lakeside towns like Weggis and Vitznau. In the past even British Royals took the water way from Lucerne to the so called „Riviera“ of Central Switzerland. Apart from luxury hotels like the Bürgenstock Resort and Park Hotel Vitznau, multiple villages also connect the lake with the mountains towering over them. Daytrips to Mt. Rigi and Mt. Pilatus and more are great ways to get a grasp of the Swiss nature the whole world dreams about.
Last but not least there is the furthest end of the lake, which is known for it‘s strong winds. The gateway to Urnersee is Flüelen. My dad has told me stories about sailing there and reaching velocities that would never be matches in the bay of Lucerne. And apart from that the stormy weather is even the backbone of one of Switzerland most famous legends – the escape of Wilhelm Tell from his enemy, Lord Gessler. However, out of the multiple times I rode a motorboat on Urnersee, only one time we encountered choppy water. That was on the way to another legendary spot on the shores of Lake Lucerne.
On a University field trip, we took a small boat for the short ride from Flüelen to Rütliwiese. It is said that in 1291 the 3 founding fathers of the Swiss Confederation swore an oath to always support eachother in the fight against the royals trying to take away their land. I do hope that the water was calmer when they crossed the lake in their small fishing boats. On our journey, the waves came all the way up to the glass windows and during the parking maneouver I was not quite sure if we would actually make it. But we did. And we were rewarded with a lesson in playing the Alphorn and a delicious cheese fondue. I‘d highly suggest you go on a boat ride on Lake Lucerne if you are in town. No matter the destination, I guarantee it will be worth the journey.
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