Malaysia – October 2022
When I get off the expressway bus from Kuala Lumpur to Melaka, I half-heartedly try to find the local bus to the historic quarter where I will be staying for the night. However, I just can’t seem to locate the correct platform. So I give up and instead use the terminal’s free Wi-Fi network to sign up for “Grab”, which is the Southeast Asian version of Uber. A driver is soon on the way, and he surprisingly greets me with: “Oh, I thought you’re Malaysian because of your name.” He then spends the rest of the journey telling me about all the food I should try while in town, and I quickly get the impression that I should probably extend my stay here. Once we arrive at the old town quarter, close to the famous Jonker Street, I get off and walk the last hundred meters to the Voyage Guesthouse, where I have a reservation for 1 night.
The interior design immediately makes me feel at home. And the fact that the dorm only features single beds with walls between them and no bunks, convinces me to extend another night. I place my backpack in the locker close to my assigned bed and then head back out into the afternoon heat to explore the city. What immediately strikes me is the intricate details in the architecture. The style reminds me of the old town streets in Penang. With the sewage only covered by more or less loose plates of stone and pretty tiles adorning the more affluent historical merchant houses. However, it seems that the city of Melaka is paying more attention to keep the public spaces clean and in good shape. But this might also be thanks to the smaller size of the touristy area.
After aimlessly strolling for a while, I stumble across “The Royal Press”. The letterpress museum shows printing blocks in Roman alphabet, Chinese characters, Arabic and Tamil scripts, as well as memorabilia in the form of printed artifacts. The various exhibitions beautifully reflect the multicultural community that The Royal Press has served throughout the years: Melaka was first established as a powerful Malay sultanate in 1400, when it became an important trading port, attracting merchants from China, India, and the Middle East. The Portuguese captured Melaka in 1511, and their presence helped establish Melaka as a significant port for European trade in Asia. Under the Dutch and English rulers, colonial architecture was introduced and the city’s infrastructure modernized with the building of roads, railways, and port facilities. After Malaysia gained independence in 1957, Melaka was gradually developed as a major tourist destination, with efforts to preserve its colonial and multicultural heritage.
After the history lesson, I need some rest. So when I pass an ice cream vitrine on the sidewalk of a small road, and the young man standing behind the glass smilingly greets me, I spontaneously decide to treat myself to a gelato. When I step inside, the man asks where I’m from. “Oh, we have a volunteer from Switzerland who regularly helps out here!”, he calls out. Coincidentally, the older lady soon shows up and we have an interesting talk about her life in Asia and her husband’s work for different NGOs in Nepal and Malaysia. With her humanitarian background, it is no surprise that she is helping out at the Kneading Peace even after retirement.
The social enterprise and café is managed by the NGO Same Skies. It serves as a training café, bakery, and creative space, aiming to empower and support refugees through skill development and employment opportunities. The establishment offers a variety of vegan-friendly menu items, including pizza, ice cream, and beverages, with a focus on homemade and ethically sourced ingredients. Beyond its culinary offerings, Kneading Peace hosts live events and baking classes, fostering community engagement and cultural exchange. The initiative Kneading Peace is part of Same Skies’ broader mission to provide refugees with sustainable livelihoods and integration opportunities within Malaysian society. Since the ice cream is too delicious and the people working here so friendly, I’m coming back the next day!
But first I have to check out the main culinary of Melaka: Jonker Walk Night Market. Every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday evening, the street is lined with a variety of food stalls offering a wide range of local Malaysian treats and snacks. Some of the popular street foods you can find include: Chicken Rice Balls and Satay Skewers of marinated meat (usually chicken or beef) served with a peanut sauce. Popiah: A fresh spring roll filled with vegetables, meats, and a flavorful sauce and Nyonya Kueh: Traditional Peranakan sweets made with rice flour, coconut, and pandan, showcasing the region’s unique Straits Chinese culture. Cendol: A refreshing dessert made from shaved ice, coconut milk, palm sugar syrup, and green rice flour jelly, often topped with red beans or corn. Other than food, the market also boasts stalls selling souvenirs and all kinds of goods. I even pass a man getting a full on back tattoo in the small street.
That night I return to my hostel rather early, exhausted from the weather, the travelling and all the impressions of the day. The next morning I wake up refreshed and full of energy. So off I am to the local Kopitiam, where I have Nasi Lemak for breakfast. I then return to the guesthouse to pick up my book which I forgot to pack before. Only to run into the 2 people staying next to me. They introduce themselves as Alice from Italy and Pis from Malaysia and ask if I want to join them on their morning walk. Having no other plans, I agree and off we go. We have an interesting conversation about Islam and its ties with the many different cultures of the countries where the religion is practiced. Pis shares the Malaysian perspective with us over my second breakfast of the day. The 2 others haven’t eaten yet and indulge in fried noodles and rice, while I stick to a Malaysian milk tea. On the way back to the old town district, we stop at Pis’ friends’ house. His cat recently gave birth to a whole bunch of kittens which we spend some time playing with before going home.
In the afternoon everyone is doing their own thing and Alice and i only reunite again shortly before sunset. She is with Tefi, another solo traveler from Argentina. The three of us spontaneously decide to take advantage of the hostel’s cheap bike rental and head out to the coast at the Straight of Melacca. Our goal is to reach Masjid Selat Melaka before the sun sets. However, we underestimate the distance slightly and have to take some unexpected detours due to one-way streets and bad navigation skills on our side. So the evening prayer is already going on and we cannot enter the mosque at this time. But we still enjoy the view and the call to prayer by the imam. We don’t stay too long, since we realized on the way out that our bikes do not have any lights. Trying to stay on the safe side, we exchange the side streets where friendly locals from all kinds of vehicles greet us with the busy but well-lit highway. Not the most relaxing bike ride but still a fun experience.
Once we return the bikes, we decide to check out Asam Pedas Claypot Restoran Kota Laksamana for dinner. The place has been recommended by both my taxi driver on the first day as well as Pis. It is famous for the grilled fish in tamarind soup called “Asam Pedas”. Since non of us have tried the dish before, we cannot confirm the authenticity, but the overall experience sitting on the typical small red plastic chairs in the parking lot seemed legit. We later return to Jonker Walk Night Market for dessert. Here, Alice suddenly gets a call from some local guys she met the previous evening. They invite us to join their jam session at the Melaka River and we end up staying out until late. When the guys mention their plan to head to a hidden away waterfall the next day for a birthday celebration, I briefly regret that I have already bought my bus ticket to Singapore in the afternoon.
Alice was also gonna leave the next day for the south, but she ends up skipping the more expensive destination in favour of a few more chill days in rural Malaysia. So our ways part when we decide to finally go to bed and my brief stay in Melaka comes to an end.
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