Looking for Manta Rays & Mola Mola around Nusa Penida

Indonesia – March 2025

On a cold morning at the end of December 2024, my friend Neha calls from India to announce that she wants to travel to Bali in March. Immediately, I‘m thinking of Manta Rays and Mola Mola (Sunfish) of course, I share those thoughts with Neha, who‘s planning to get her Open Water certification there. Long story short: in the beginning of March, we meet in Kuta, Bali and after a nice brunch, take the speedboat over to Nusa Lembongan. A driver picks us up at the beach and quickly offers to help me with my backpack. Meanwhile Neha is carrying 2 bags (which are larger than mine) on her own.

Quick digression about intercultural friendships and their influence while travelling

Traveling with friends from other countries always teaches me a lot, not only about the destination’s culture, but also the third country the travel companion is from. It’s needless to say, there are many differences between Switzerland and India. And after spending quite some time in eastern Asia and more specifically Japan, I have also adopted certain habits that are common here. The above situation is the first, but not the last time we are wondering about how people around us perceive us during this trip. Most people (locals and other travelers alike) will quickly categorize me as American or European and Neha as Indian or generally South Asian.

Based on these categories, they will attribute us the stereotypical behavior of each group and also (consciously or subconsciously) treat us however they think those groups of people should be treated. It may be based on previous interactions and personal preferences too, but in general, from the get-go, I would be seen as rich and Neha as demanding. There was 1 conversation in particular with Neha‘s Hungarian dive instructor, which left a lasting impression. He expressed surprise about Neha‘s fast progress and stamina. According to him, his Indian clients tend to learn rather slowly, are uncomfortable being in the water and despite more efforts required from the instructor, often ask for discounts. While he may have seen it as complementing Neha on her progress, he actually bashed a whole country. At this point in time, we should really know better than that.

But the outsiders’ view is only one aspect that can make traveling with people with different backgrounds complicated. Apart from socio-economical factors, things like diet, preferred mode of transportation and non-verbal communication can easily cause arguments if either of the people involved is not willing to learn and trying to understand where the other one comes from. Luckily, Neha and I have very similar ideas about food, so we got 1 huge hurdle out of the way very quickly 😀

After arriving at our homestay, we quickly take a shower and spend the rest of the afternoon practicing free diving in the accommodation‘s pool. Since the homestay is located just off the beach, it‘s a no-brainer to treat ourselves to dinner with a view of the sunset. Exhausted from the long day, we go to bed early and fall asleep to the sound of cicades and geckos. The following day, Neha completes all her pool dives at Lembongan Dive Centre and I chill at a small beachside restaurant on the north coast of the island. So on the second full say in Nusa Lembongan, we‘re finally set for the much anticipated open water dive at Manta Point!

On the walk to the dive shop, we stop at a french bakery to grab some croissant and pain au chocolat to go for breakfast. (note: this is not a recommendable meal before diving. rather have something heavier that provides enough energy for the day.) When we arrive at the half open office space, I introduce myself to one guy who looks like he‘s working there. He then screams my name for everyone in the closer proximity around the shop to hear it and a second guy runs over to introduce himself as the dive guide for the day.

Since I slready signed all the papers the day before yesterday, all I have to do is putting on my wetsuit. Those who have done that before, know it‘s not an easy task. Even less so if you are a size M, but are given a 5mm S size suit, and the temperature is 30°C despite the early morning hours. After exchanging the first suit for a larger size, I finally manage to cover my lower body by wriggling around for what feels like an eternity. With everyone esle also ready to go, we get the ok to board the small dive boat anchored at the beach just in front of the shop.

The 1-hour ride around the southern coast of Nusa Penida is a bit bumpy, but we get to see the famous T-rex shaped cliff from afar, which is cool. Once at the dive site, my guide is doing a quick briefing for everone and then has our group of advanced divers back roll into the sea first. Waving bye to Neha for now, I drop into the cool water and already cause a first scene when my back up regulator freeflows 20 bar of air. Luckily, another guy on my buddy group helps me to fix it and we are ready to decend. Shortly after arriving at the bottom, we already encounter the first Manta Ray.

During the next 45 minutes, we meet 4 more of the majestic rays, as well as moray eels, an octopus and lots of colourful fishes and corals. It‘s a dream come true and noone really wants to get back on board when the guide signs „up“. A little tired but very happy, I climb up the ladder and gratefully grab the cup of water one of the crew members hands me. Trying to stay out of the way while the rest of the divers get back on the boat, I can only quickly check in on Neha before we are speeding off again to the next dive site. It‘s only about 45 minutes later, when we arrive at Crystal Bay, that I realize the effect the bumpy boat ride had on my friend.

While I‘m happily munching away on the fried rice I ordered for lunch, Neha is fighting against the seasickness turning her stomach upside down. In no shape to enjoy the view of the tropical islands around us, she spends the surface interval feeding the fish with the small breakfast and somehow trying to contain enough energy for the second dive. Both the instructor and I try to cheer her up, but having been in her shoes before, I know there is nothing we can say to make the situation better. So have her getting back into the water is the best thing to do.

The goal for my second dive is finding one of the Mola Mola (sunfish) who live in the area. But it‘s off-season and the luck if not on our side. So after a freezing 10 minutes of starring into the blue at 25 meters, we give up and return to the shallow reef to look at turtles and smaller fishes. Wondering how Neha is doing, I‘m happy to see a small smile on her face when we get back on the boat. However, she‘s still not feeling well enough to eat her fried rice. But luckily, there is a lifesaver in the form of a part time instructor waiting for us at the dive shop. Running his own Indian restaurant on the island, he reserves us a table for dinner.

It would take another 4 hours of rest in the afternoon and the typical Southindian thali meal for Neha to feel better. I think that‘s the first time a fellow traveller ask for Indian food to cure an unwell stomach. We get a few fruits for a dessert to go from a street vendor and go to bed early. Luckily, the dive sites on the following day are located on the north side of the islands, where the swell is much less strong. With no upset stomachs, 1 brand new open water diver certificate and a big appetite to learn, we spend the evening at the dive shop, identifying all the fishes and nudibranches we‘ve seen during our dives here.