Tsetserleg to unknown hot spring – July 2025
After saying goodbye to the kind owners of the Fairfield Tsetserleg Guesthouse & Café, the Scandinavians & I are in good spirits for the journey ahead. After all, our driver finally got some clear instructions about our plan in Mongolian. First, we stop at the The Museum of Arkhangai Province, where I look at artifacts telling tales of the regions culture, wildlife, famous people and more. Meanwhile, my fellow travellers are more interested in the spiritual world. So they visit a nearby Buddhist monastery. Done with the cultural sightseeing, we get back on track for the drive to the hot spring area. With the next supermarket stop expected in about 3 to 4 days time, we want to stock up on noodles, sweets and other snacks before leaving the provincial capital. Just outside the town centre we find a hypermarket with an adjacent gas station. So while we shop for food, the driver joins the loong queue of cars waiting to refill their tanks before the next hours long drive through nomansland.
Fully loaded, we leave Tsetserleg behind and drive down the tarmac street towards Kharkorin. After about 15 minutes of the bumpless ride, we realize, that we were supposed to turn onto the field road a while ago – since that is the fastest way to the hidden spring. Unfortunately, the communication with the driver once again has to go through Google Translate, and the result is meager. We can only assume that he will be taking us to the tourist resort of Tsenkher, since that is where he usually drops of customers. Tracking our live location on Google Maps heightens this suspision. But just as we are almost giving up on the hope for another night of wild camping, the driver stops the car to greet a herdsman on a horse. They exchange a few words before the local points to the valley on our left, slightly off the way towards the hot spring resort. In good spirits, we continue to bump along the field track following a small stream.
Between small bushes, we spot lots of livestock: grazing horses, sheep, goats and even some yaks. On both sides of the river there are individual ger camps scattered on low hills. Some of them have motorbikes parked out front, from others smoke is rising and for all of them the doors are facing south. We make good progress and comparing to previous days, the 19 kms to the far end of the valley go by quickly. As our GPS location is slowly approaching the Google tag, we are surprised to see a number of cars parked next to a small field path leading to a tiny wooden bridge. The scenery is stunning and with sunset still a while away, we decide to go for a walk before setting up our tents. The driver happily joins our quest to find the hidden spring. After a short walk across some fields and rivers, we easily locate the place where geothermally heated water streams out to of the hill, thanks to the lady in a beautiful green Deel waiting for her turn to take a shower behind the makeshift curtain. Just in front it, other people are filling their water bottles at another fresh water source.
We take some time to absorb the views of the secluded meadow with only 1 lonely ger sitting on top of a small hill, and then decide to set up our tents at the bottom of that hill, where there is enough falt surface and space to park the car. A huuge rock in the middle of the field serves as a kitchen area, where we heat up water for cup noodles (me) and camping food (the Scandinavians). Quite tired after the long day, we head to bed as soon as the sun sets and rain clouds pull up. Then, just as I’m about to slip into sweet dreams, I suddenly hear a thunderous sound. First confusing it with a thunderstorm, I soon realize that it’s actually a herd of horses headed for the river to drink before the night falls. The beat of the hooves seem way too close for comfort and I switch on my headlight in an attempt to ensure the animals see my tent in the dark. Then I open the door and see around 80 horses rushing down the hill to the watersource. After about 5 minutes, the whole lot runs back up the hill and only returns for the morning drink at around 6am.
The early wake up call and the still chilly temperatures have me wander back to the spring to check the bath situation. On the way I take a little detour into the bushes to look for another loo with a view. Back on track, I notice the small congregation of middle aged women and one man hanging out in front of the shower curtain. Some of them have wet hair and towels loosely wrapped around their bodies, so I assume that they already took their turn in the tub. Thinking that there is only 1 person in front of me in the line, I only take a quick look at another fresh water spring hidden between some rocks before joining the loose queue. The Mongolian bathers all seem to know each other and chat away in their own language. Not expecting any English to be spoken around here, I quietly observe the scene. One of the ladies brought her toiletries in a chic see through pouch. 2 others are wrapped in beautifully embroidered deels. The only man in the crowd is sitting on a cut off tree trunk.
A splashing sound announces that the person behind the curtain is done and draining the tub. Shortly after we see a stream of steaming water run down the hill. A man quickly grabs his clothes from the line holding the curtain and moments later steps out fully dressed with a big smile on his face. Next, one of the ladies with wet hair disappears behind the curtain. Just when I’m wondering if they are taking multiple dips, my fellow travellers show up and we try to solve the riddle together. Luckily, another Mongolian man joining the queue hails from Ulanbaatar and speaks some English. He explains that the water here is sacred and we shouldn’t use soap to wash (given it’s a natural spring we weren’t gonna do that anyway of course). After chatting with the lady who just finished her bath, he tells us that the fresh spring water from the source near us is supposed to be good for the eyes. So people first wash their hair with cold water before rinsing their bodies in the hot spring tub.
Since I’m next in line, I crouch down and let fresh water touch my hair for the first time in 4 days. While this would be a more satisfying experience if I could use shampoo, it already makes me feel a little more clean. I then head over to the shower curtain, where I hang my clothes on the line. The person before me already put the plug back into the drain and hot water is slowly filling the tub. After placing my toiletry bag on the small chair next to the bath, I sit down on the small shelflike slope of the tub and let the warm water run over my shoulders. It’s less hot than what I’m used to from hot springs in Japan, but still pleasant enough considering the chilly morning air. I take a moment to enjoy the water and then scrub my body with a towel. Not wanting to keep the rest of the bathers waiting for too long, I finish up quickly. I drain the water while getting dressed and put the wooden plug back when the tub is empty.
While waiting for my Scandinavian friends to wash up, I spot an older couple who seems to be local to the area. After seeing the line for the bath, they head over to the small river where the hot spring water runs together with the fresh water. Slipping off their deels, they take turns washing in the shallow water for a while. What a nice way to start the day. Once all members of our group are refreshed, we quickly have breakfast before getting back into the car. It’s time to leave Archangai and we have a hunch that the day will bring another adventure, since the driver insists on taking the field route to Töwchön Chiid monastery. The distance between the 2 places is about 50 kilometers when connected by a straight line. However, there are plenty of rivers and hill passes inbetween. This turns the drive into a full day activity of asking the few nomads we pass for the direction and going in circles to find places to cross wide streams.
Read the 3rd (& last) part of this story next week.
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