Töwchön Chiid to Kharkorin – July 2025
We arrive at the parking lot (aka another field) for Töwchön Chiid monastery at around 4pm, just when the rain stops. Our driver hasn’t been to the monastery before and is eager to join for the 4 kilometer walk through the woods. That is until we share the path with more and more horses, which turns everything muddy and I start to feel some similarity hiking in Pahalgam in northern India. He returns to the car while we continue to follow the horsemen and eventually reach the buddhist monastery nestled between large rocks on top of a hill. Despite the rainy weather, the views are incredible and we spend quite some time exploring the multiple stupas and temples in the site. On the way back to the car, a few groups of friendly Mongolian vacationers strike up conversations. While eager to hear about our journey, they are just as excited to tell us about their own travels during the Naadam summer holidays.
As soon as we meet our driver in the parking lot, a downpour begins. Huge raindrops quickly turn the fields on the steep hill into a mudslide and we are once again glad for our 4×4 vehicle. Not the most ideal conditions to find a suitable campsite. All the flat areas are on top of hills, which the car cannot reach. Additionally, our emotions start to rise as dinner time comes closer. I could do without setting up a tent in the rain, so I’m relieved when the driver suggests to continue down the valley and hope for the weather to lighten up soon. And only 5 minutes later, the rain stops, we reach a good enough hill to drive up and set up tents against strong wind. Even starting the camping cooker to boil water proofs difficult under these conditions, but at least the sky is beautiful now. Exhausted from the events of the last 1.5 hours, I retire to my tent soon. From inside I suddenly hear some commotion when 2 guard dogs from the nearby Ger settlement show up to inspect us newcomers.
The next morning the wind is gone, but 1 of the guard dogs still stays within the vicinity of our small camp. He only heads back to his actual home when we finish breakfast and begin to pack up the tents. Once I’m done with my part, I go on a short stroll around the hilltop in search of a toilet spot. As always, Mongolia delivers, this time the view from the loo features the valley below with several small ger camps around which yaks and horses are grazing freely. I take a moment to enjoy the peaceful scenery before returning to the car where the Scandinavian are already waiting for the departure to our next destination. To everyone’s delight, the drive to Orkhon waterfall is only 1.5 hours long and the field tracks leading there are in relatively good shape, despite the recent rain.
After a smooth ride, we arrive at the designated tourist parking at around 10am. Together with our driver, we climb down the rocky cliff to the very brown Orkhon river. My travel companions and I were hoping for a rinse in the fresh water but the brown stream racing by looks less than inviting. So we stagger along the shore and once again we pass quite a lot of families from the capital who are enjoying their summer holiday exploring the countryside. Watching them climb across the slippery rocks in crocs and high heels while video calling relatives, I fear for the kids’ (& adults’) safety. But somehow everyone makes it to the main attraction in one piece and we finally get to enjoy the misty winds at the impressive waterfall. Between taking pictures and people watching we are also approached by a few kids who want to practice their English with the few foreigners around.
On the way back up to the valley I find another loo with a view in a small forest. The upper river is just as entertaining as the lower portion. There are local boys driving tourists on their motorbikes from the parking area to the waterfall and others rent out their horses for the same stretch. There are also plenty of tour groups exploring the area on horseback during a half-day tour. As we slowly head back to the parking lot, it becomes apparent that our driver still intends on returning to UB the same day. We insist on finishing the tour as discussed. After all, we planned for 2 more nights in the countryside. With the help of a little girl from the capital as a translator, we finally reach the agreement to sleep at a local nomad family’s ger in proximity to the waterfall. So we get back into the car for the estimated 200 meter drive.
About 10 minutes later we’re still heading back to where we came from in the morning, crossing small rivers and navigating through muddy patches that make me hold onto the the handle bar above me. Another 20 minutes later, the driver finally stops at a small ger camp and talks to the nomads there. When he gets back in the car, I double check if we’re still looking for the homestay and he confirms, turning back to the waterfall once again. Lo and behold, we pull up around 100 meters from the parking lot we left an hour ago. The local family welcomes us with tea and helps us to organize a horse trek for the next day. Just glad that we’re not getting back into the car for the next 24 hours, we brave the strong wind and prepare another camping meal under the small covered seating area in the middle of the camp. With little else to do, the small territorial fight breaking out between our host family’s dog and a visiting stray provides some entertainment on this lazy afternoon.
We spend the rest of our time in the Orkhon valley with walks, reading and journaling at the river, exchanging travel stories, visits to the local mini-mart (literally just a ger that only offers soda) and eating. Then Pernille and Stephanie get to go on a short horse trek and we’re off to our final destination: Kharkorin. The last drive through muddy field tracks is not for the faint hearted. At one point we find multiple Toyota Priuses parked at a quite deep river crossing. Our driver joins the queue and steps out of the car to assess the situation. Meanwhile, one of the old Sovies UZA cars doesn’t even bother to stop to change the gears and ruthlessly glides through the waist-deep brown water. Leaving the Toyotas behind, we follow the “Bukhanka” and thankfully soon reach the first gravel road we’ve seen in days.
From here, the journey to Kharkhorin is relatively easy. At Khujirt we refill the gas a last time and watch the sunset as the bumping becomes less and less frequent. Just before 9pm, with only 1 hour delay, we finally reach Gaya’s Guesthouse where I thoroughly enjoy the first shower in a week. While my companions eat their last camping meal of the trip, I can’t wait to lay down in the comfortable bed in our private ger. We spend the next morning exploring the famous Erdene Zuu monastery and the local museum about the ancient town of Kharkhorin (highly recommend). Then it’s time for our last lunch together. Not in the mood for any more noodles, we opt for Korean restaurant serving Bulgogi and Kimchi Jiggae. My Scandinavian companions want to return to UB by the evening and I decided a while ago to spend another night in Kharkhorin.
So we part ways with the promise to meet again in another part of the world, and I’m happy to finally have some time to myself. But my solitude is short-lived. Only an hour after I sit down in the common area to journal, I receive a phone call from a friend and then I’m quickly adopted by 2 guys hanging out at another table. They introduce themselves as Jon from Sweden (living in New York) and Ethan from Texas. We play a few rounds of different card games while sharing our various experiences travelling in Mongolia. Time flies and suddenly it’s almost sunset time. Jon is set on taking some shots for his Instagram and Ethan surrenders to his role as a photographer. I join them on the short hike up the nearby hill with the aim to find “Turtle Rock” and “Phallic Rock”.
But as so often, the things we come across along the way are much more interesting than the actual sights. Like the various piles of horse and cow bones arranged in neat circles. Or the 1 lonely cruch where we cannot help but wonder what happened to the other one and the person using it. Once the sun has disappeared behind one of the green rolling hills, we head to the local supermarket to buy some snacks and then return to our accommodation. The three of us play a few more rounds of card games before retiring to our rooms. The next morning we meet again over breakfast and then make our way to the bus station together. We are all headed for UB, but on different busses. So we say goodbye, only to meet again on 2 different occasions along the way when our busses stop at rest areas. And then I’m back in UB, enjoying the pleasures of city life – taking some time to process my month in Mongolia before leaving for Korea on my next adventure.
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