Japan’s greatest treasure

Ibusuki, Kyushu – June 2019

Takuya and I are staying at a traditional Ryokan Onsen Resort in Ibusuki – the southern most part of Kyushu. We met in Ecuador and after I stayed with his family in Osaka, he joined me on the last part of my trip to Nihon’s western-most main island. He thinks that I have not really experienced Japanese culture if I leave once again without a bath at the hot springs. I agree with this too, but there are two points I first have to come to terms with.

I am slightly concerned about offending the local bathers by showing off my tattoos. In the past, tattoos were away to brand criminals in Japan. Later, heavily tattooed Yakuza gang members didn’t help the body modification to a better image. Nowadays it is still prohibited for tattoo artist to practice without a medical license and many public baths have a sign up preventing tattooed people from entering. Western people are granted a bit more freedom, but I think it is important to respect the local culture.

The second part which makes me a little uncomfortable is the butt naked swimming. Having enjoyed a fairly liberal upbringing in Europe, walking around naked outside your home is still not a very common thing to do. We wear swimsuits to public baths and in Japan they don’t. At least the Onsen we are going to visit has 2 gender segregated areas (like most do), which to me makes the being naked a little less intimidating. However, this also means that I can’t rely on my personal translator and am all alone speaking/reading almost none of the language.

And so, we put on our Yukata (a light Kimono – worn like a bathrobe) and slippers and head to the Onsen building. We have a delicious sea food dinner and beer (to help me relax a little) and then exchange our room keys for a key to the changing rooms. We go up the stairs and reach 2 curtains which mark the entrances to the bath. Takuya points to the left curtain and says: “This is the entrance for the women. See you downstairs in an hour.” Knowing him and triple checking the Kanji character on the curtain I walk towards the RIGHT entrance and say: “See you downstairs in an hour!”

There are 2 teenage girls with their mom and grandma in the changing room. They are blow drying their hair and get ready to leave as I look for my locker. I take off Yukata and underwear and grab a towel from the rack next to the door to the showers. A little self-conscious I try to hide behind the towel as I walk into the shower area. Now it is time to watch and learn. There is an old lady sitting on a stool emptying buckets of water over her head and cleaning herself with the soap provided. I sit down a couple of stools away from her and copy her actions. I then see her get up and walk towards another door – and so do I. Temporarily blinded by the thick steam rising from the 6 pools, I struggle to find my way to the outside pools. Finally reaching the glass door, I step out into the mild summer air.

The first basin I try is located at the far corner, covered by a wooden pergola. I gasp for air as I sink into the hot water. I push myself to fully submerge, but after a minute I have to take a break and sit on the edge of the pool with only my feet in the water. From there I can see the clear sky and bright full moon. Two girls get into the pool by the door, which sports a TV. I listen to them chatting quietly and realize, that I don’t have a watch and no idea when the hour is over, after which I am supposed to meet Takuya in the hotel lobby.

I decide to simply stay as long as I please and jump into the next basin, which fortunately is not boiling hot and offers an even better view of the night sky. Sitting there, enjoying the fresh air and warm water, I can easily understand why Japanese people treasure their hot springs and some even visit the public baths on a daily basis. After a final dip, in what looks like a huge bucket made of stone, I lay down my towel on one of the plastic deck chairs and let myself dry off completely – once again watching the fascinating night sky.

By now I have completely forgotten to think about my tattoos and being naked. The few women who are coming and going are so focused on relaxing and having a good time with their friends, and do not bat an eye at the other bathers. Back in the changing room I put my towel in the designated bin, get dressed and blow dry my hair. I walk down to the cashier to return my locker key and meet Takuya in the lobby. He asks how it was and tells me, that he has been waiting for me for half an hour. He thought I’d probably feel uncomfortable and leave early. I assure him that the opposite was the case and that I couldn’t wait to come back and do it all again. *It took 4 years, but in the winter of 2023 I finally made it and had an even more magical experience in Hokkaido.