Lucerne Carnival – a guide for first-timers

Switzerland – February

It’s that time of the year again. The fifth season in Switzerland. The week during which I miss home the most. The Lucerne Carnival, or “Fasnacht” as we call it here, is unique among the various carnival customs of Central Switzerland. The old town of Lucerne is transformed into a festival area for a whole week. Whimsical characters with imaginative masks and costumes parade through the alleys. Music formations, so-called “Guggenmusigen” play weird marches and thousands of people in disguise dance in order to scare winter away. I have been an active Carnival participant for more than a decade. If you want more background info about the Fasnacht in Luzern read my older blog post on the topic too.

It all starts with the big bang on “Dirty Thursday” at 5 o’clock at the Kapellplatz. In the afternoon, there is a big parade with local carnival bands playing and creative Lucerners showing off the colorful floats they built during months. Another parade with a slightly different route is held on the following Monday. And on Tuesday evening, the Monstercorso – the big marching concert with bands from all over the Canton participating – fills the old town street with the sound of trumpets and drums. Finally, in the early morning of Ash Wednesday, forty days before Palm Sunday, peace returns to the city. While these are the cornerstones of the festival organized by the official committee, they are by far not the only attractions.

On the “rüüdige Tage” the whole old town of Lucerne shakes. There is something for everyone to see, hear and eat, even in the most hidden corners and alleys of Lucerne. Worth seeing are the magnificent floats of the “Kult-Ur-Fasnächtler”, which are often stationed at the Weinmarkt square. If you love theater, then Sternenplatz is a good address. There are frequent concerts on the stairs leading up to the Rathaus square, in front of Credit Suisse building and the Jesuits Church, as well as on Mühlenplatz and Hirschenplatz.

In the restaurants, the small formations perform and bring swing and music into the dining rooms. And on Reussquai there are many great individual masks to marvel at. They bring their characters to life through gestures, dance and movement. There are also many families and groups of friends who put a lot of hard work into their costumes and floats stationed in that area. If you want to contribute to their expenses and in return receive a warming beverage, don’t hesitate to talk to the people gathering around the floats. Here are some more tips to ensure you have a great time:

The Lucerne carnival lives on countless, colorful and creative costumes and masks. Be creative, rummage in your closet and boldly combine the different pieces. Or maybe even sew a new costume? After all, the Lucerne carnival is most fun when you’re dressed up. If you prefer to buy a costume off the rack, then “Fasnachts-Bazar” and the “Vonarburg” in Lucerne are good addresses. Smaller accessories, wigs and make-up can be bought in Lucerne before and during Fasnacht in almost any store. Remember to pay attention to the weather forecast and dress accordingly. The layered look rules!

The carnival is loud, wild and also invites you to celebrate exuberantly. The costumed participants love to be photographed and rarely do you get to talk to locals as easily as at the carnival. Go to the alley and collect new impressions and friends! But leave the car in the garage and use the bus or train to get into town. There is a high chance you will be enjoying a hot alcoholic beverage or two and during the parades, main streets are closed.

However, there are some unwritten laws that you should know too. If you encounter a Guggenmusik in Lucerne’s alleys, keep your distance and never cross a formation. The musicians have a limited field of vision due to their masks and therefore have the right of way. This way you avoid unpleasant encounters with timpanists and the musicians do not stumble. Likewise, confetti once thrown belongs on the ground, as the wet paper leaves marks on clothes and masks. If you follow those few easy rules, I can assure you that your stay in Lucerne during Fasnacht will be one you will never forget.