Following the tracks of the Silk Road

Uzbekistan – July 2023

My journey from Tashkent to Samarkand is re-awakening my traveler’s spirit. I’m headed to a new city, that I have been wanting to visit for a long time, and the sun is just about to set. The temperature is slowly becoming more pleasant and now my only job is to figure out, how to get to my accommodation. At the arrival platform, I run into a Japanese couple, and we start looking for the station exit together. Their Uzbek acquaintance is already waiting for them, and they kindly offer to take me to the city center in their cab.

Since my guesthouse is located in the old quarter, we pass by Registon Square on the way, before turning into one of the tiny streets of the old quarter. The roads are surprisingly busy this Sunday evening, and I’m impressed by the driver’s ability to pass each other without a scratch. We soon arrive at the alley, where Hotel Rahmon is located and I say farewell to the new friends. I enter the large iron gate and am greeted by a young boy who seems to be part of the owner’s family. He takes me upstairs to the terrace, where I’m soon after served tea, sweets, and watermelon. I then head to my private room to drop my luggage before venturing to the registon square.

The atmosphere on this mild summer evening is truly mesmerizing. I spend an hour or so just sitting on the low stairs in front of the magnificent site and watching the people in and around the tourist attraction enjoying themselves. There are Uzbek families with kids who play tag, eat ice cream, and throw glowing plastic balls into the air. Old couples are chatting with friends, and a few tourists are snapping away pictures of the impressive architecture. When the fatigue from the travel day finally kicks in, I return to the hotel through the now quiet alleys. Back in my room, I open the window to let the fresh breeze flow in from the courtyard and fall asleep immediately.

The next day I start to work early since my colleagues in Japan are already awake for a few hours. Instead of a lunch break, I take advantage of the rich hotel breakfast. The hosts set up a communal table on the terrace, and it’s easy to get to know the other guests. What’s hard, though, is to choose between porridge, bread, cheese, delicious fruits and jams. So I help myself to a small serving of everything. Of course, there is also a lot of tea being served, and I begin the second half of my workday with a full stomach and the fan in my room set to the highest level. When I finish at 3 pm, the sun is still strong, but I’m eager to explore the many sights Samarkand has to offer.

My first afternoon stroll leads me through the alleys of Registon once more. But this time I’m headed north to the Shohi-Zinda mausoleum. I cross the busy main street and pay the small entrance fee at the ticket booth. Then I head up the stone stairs towards the mosaic-covered necropolis. The stone domes with the blue decoration look even prettier in person than in pictures, and I can’t get my eyes off the stunning architecture. There are surprisingly few tourists around. However, that might be due to the shoulder season. I do seek shelter from the sun here and there, but generally, it’s quite manageable.

Another afternoon stroll leads me to the Chidr Mosque, where I take advantage of the kind of wooden canopy structures facing the city center and Registon Square. I read a few chapters in my book and watch the families taking breaks at the drinking fountain. Then I continue on towards Siyob Bozor – the big market. I’m not sure why, but there is something about the hustle and bustle of a market, that always gets me. I love to wander through the stalls, see what kind of products are on display and indulge in local sweets, fruits, and juices.

And Siyob Bozor does not disappoint me. On the upper level, vendors are selling all the spices you can possibly think of. Cumin, saffron, cinamon, pepper, chillies, anything goes. Another aisle specializes in nuts, dried fruits and different kinds of toffees. Of course, I have to help myself to a few hundred grams of the latter. My shopping spree doesn’t end here. On the ground floor, among people selling all kinds of fruits and vegetables, I spot an old lady who is making fresh juice from berries. I gesture that I would like to buy 1 bottle and with the help of a friendly bystander, the woman explains, that I should keep it in the fridge for 1 day before drinking.

Later that day, I spontaneously meet up with Javier, whom I first got to know briefly in Tashkent. He just arrived in the desert town, and I take the opportunity to finally enter the Registon square premises together with him. Once again, I’m surprised at the small number of tourists who pass us as we walk through the courtyards of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city’s main square was once used to gather people for speeches from the various leaders, as a market space, and as a Muslim college and place of higher education.

One of the madrassahs is currently used to showcase the diverse history of the buildings, and Javier and I take our time to study its contents. While walking from exhibition to exhibition, we talk about our respective travels and life experiences, and before we know it, it’s 10.30pm. Fortunately, the Registon museum is open until midnight and that night, we are blessed with a light show accompanied by captivating music. Only after the performance is over, we realize, that we haven’t eaten yet. Despite the late hours, the tourist restaurant on the main street is still happy to serve us a bowl of delicious Laghman noodles.

The next day, after finishing my work, I go on a long walk to the Gur-Emir-Mausoleum and the central park. This area of the city is definitely more modern, and especially the grand avenue called “Bul’var” reminds me of the streets in Tashkent. But what can never be missing in Samarkand are the random street vendors selling watermelons, and the desert sand, which is carried across the town by the welcome breeze. On this walk I notice once again, how the citizens of Uzbekistan seem to be magically drawn to the few green spaces available. Or maybe that’s just me – cause I find myself choosing parks and avenues for my daily strolls.

With fresh banana juice in my hand, I return to my hotel where I relax on the terrace, chatting with some girls from Austria and China before they leave. Later I meet Javier again on the steps of the Registon. He, too, is leaving the next day for another city and we want to give the ice cream shop at the main square a try. The gelato is absolutely delicious. We devour it while sitting on the steps in front of the madrassas, when suddenly the spotlights are switched off and an oriental melody starts to play. Projected onto the backdrop of the stone buildings, a beautiful, moving light installation is showing the history of Samarkand and Uzbekistan – with French commentary.

After the performance is over, 2 young men approach us. They ask if they may sit down and have a chat with us. Javier tries to use the limited Russian he picked up while in Kyrgyzstan, but it quickly becomes apparent, that the Uzbek men would rather speak English. They explain that they are students, currently studying English at the local university and that they sometimes come to Registon Square to practice by talking to tourists. Javier and I take this opportunity to find out more about the Uzbek culture. We ask about their families, their upbringing, and what they think the future will bring for the country. They very openly answer all of our questions, and we take a picture together to commemorate this summer evening in Samarkand.

On the way back to my accommodation that night, I stop at a small kiosk, where the soviet influence is very noticeable in both shop design and products on offer. But then, as soon as I turn around the corner, I pass a cart selling the famous Samarkand flat bread. And a bit further down the street, a bunch of old men wearing traditional Uzbek clothing are sitting in front of a one-story brick building. The mix of different cultures who were brought to the country by its many rulers over the centuries is truly fascinating, and I cannot wait to come back to explore more of it.