Japan – May 2025
Stretching across Japan’s scenic Seto Inland Sea, the Shimanami Kaido is one of the country’s most famous cycling routes. The 70-kilometre trail connects the port towns of Onomichi and Imabari via a chain of small islands linked by towering suspension bridges, dedicated cycling lanes, and quiet coastal roads. Along the way, riders pass citrus groves, fishing villages, sandy beaches, and countless viewpoints overlooking the calm blue waters of the Seto Inland Sea. Thanks to its gentle gradients and well-developed cycling infrastructure, the route is accessible even for casual cyclists.
The 2-day trip quickly went up to the top of my bucket list for Japan while I was working for an inbound travel agency and put together itineraries for different clients. With my parents being avid cyclists too, I proposed including the Shimanami Kaido in our three-week trip together when they came to visit. My dad immediately agreed, while my mom only did so on the condition of getting an e-bike. Luckily, Shimanami Bike Rental came through with the convenient option of battery-assisted bikes.
My parents and I arrive in Onomichi by train from Tottori on the day before the scheduled bike pick-up. We check in at Guest House Yadocurly and go for a quick exploration of the port town. Narrow lanes climb the hillside behind the station, lined with old wooden houses, tiny cafés, and temples overlooking the harbour. After a more or less relaxing night (my parents have a bit of difficulty getting used to sleeping on futons) we send our larger backpacks ahead with Yamato Transport to our accommodation in Matsuyama, where we’ll arrive the following evening.
The adventure properly begins at the rental office next to Onomichi Station. After a quick briefing, helmet fitting, and a few adjustments to the saddle height, we roll our bikes outside and stock up on snacks and drinks at the nearby Lawson. From there, we take the short ferry crossing to Mukōshima from the small boarding area directly in front of the station. The crossing only takes a few minutes, but it already feels like leaving the mainland behind and entering a much slower rhythm of island life. (Crossing by ferry is recommended since there is no official cycling path over the first bridge).
Once on Mukōshima, we begin following the famous blue line painted onto the asphalt all the way to Imabari. The first island isn’t particularly eventful, but the weather is perfect and everyone is in high spirits. Before long we reach the first real climb up to the Innoshima Bridge. The bridge’s cycling path spirals gradually upwards and gives our legs an early test. My mom quickly becomes very happy about the decision to rent an e-bike, and even I’m grateful for the battery assistance by the time we reach the top.
On Innoshima, my dad makes what feels like his third vending machine coffee stop of the morning. Since we’re making good progress, we decide on a detour to the hilltop Innoshima Suigun Castle. The castle itself is fairly small, but the elevated views over the island are worth the extra effort. Instead of going back on the main cycling path, we continue our detour along the southern edge of the island. The small countryside roads leading there turn out to be some of my favourite parts of the entire trip, winding through quiet fishing villages, citrus orchards, and steep green hills with almost no traffic.
Lunch is improvised at a FamilyMart where we sit outside with onigiri, sandwiches, and cold drinks. At the nearby bike terminal, we ask about exchanging the e-bike batteries, but the staff reassure us that the current charge should comfortably last until Setoda, where we’ll spend the night. To save energy, we stick to the direct route for the rest of the afternoon, only stopping occasionally for photos or a quick break. One memorable pause comes at a roadside michi-no-eki where we try local citrus soda made from the region’s famous lemons.
The cultural highlight of the trip is undoubtedly Kōsan-ji on Ikuchijima. The temple complex feels almost surreal, combining colourful architecture with unexpected modern art installations. Beneath the grounds, we wander through the Cave of a Thousand Buddhas, an eerie underground passage depicting scenes of Buddhist hell before opening into calmer tunnels lined with hundreds of stone Buddhas. Above the temple rises a giant Kannon statue watching over the island, while at the very top sits Miraishin no Oka, a dazzling white marble garden sculpted from Italian Carrara marble. The bright stone terraces overlooking the Seto Inland Sea feel completely unlike anywhere else in Japan.
We spend much longer at the temple than expected and finally check into SOIL Setoda in the late afternoon. This turns out to be one of the nicest stays of the trip. The stylish hotel and community space occupies a renovated waterfront building in the sleepy port town of Setoda and caters perfectly to cyclists travelling the Shimanami Kaido. Inside, the atmosphere mixes minimalist Japanese design with a relaxed hostel-like vibe. After a shower and some rest, we head up to the rooftop terrace to watch the sunset over the port. For dinner, we walk to a small local sushi restaurant called Keima (桂馬), where we enjoy some of the freshest fish before falling asleep surprisingly early after a full day of cycling.
The next morning starts with an excellent western-style breakfast at the hotel before we continue southwards. At Setoda Sunset Beach we exchange the bike batteries and take a commemorative family photo in front of the sea. Refreshed and fully charged again, we continue across smaller islands and a couple more bridges: the elegant Tatara Bridge, the smaller Ōmishima Bridge, and finally the Hakata-Ōshima Bridge. Each crossing offers slightly different scenery, but the endless views across the islands never become repetitive.
Somewhere along the way we stop at Ishi no Cafe for pancakes, lemonade and coffee while watching cyclists continuously roll past outside. From there, only the final challenge remains: the long approach to the massive Kurushima Kaikyō Bridge. Stretching roughly four kilometres across the strait, the bridge feels like a fitting grand finale to the journey. The dedicated cycling path climbs steadily higher above the water and rewards us with spectacular panoramic views over the swirling currents below.
Not long afterwards, we finally roll into Imabari tired, slightly sunburnt, but incredibly satisfied. After returning the bikes near the station, we pick up a few snacks and souvenirs before boarding a slow local train onward to Matsuyama. Looking back, the Shimanami Kaido easily lives up to its reputation. More than just a cycling route, it feels like a journey through a quieter side of Japan that’s best experienced at the pace of a bicycle.
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