India – January 2026
When I ask Paul for recommendations in Tamil Nadu, most of his suggestions revolve around temples. After spending Pongal exploring the state, it becomes easy to see why. Over three days, I visit three of Tamil Nadu’s most famous temple towns: Madurai, Tiruchirappalli and Thanjavur. Each offers a completely different experience.
Madurai
Arriving in Madurai at dawn, the Meenakshi Temple is the first attraction I head for. I leave my backpack at the railway station cloak room and walk the short distance to the old town. Along Town Hall Road, vegetarian restaurants are already serving breakfast to pilgrims and travellers. Soon the famous tower comes into view. At least, partly. The temple is currently undergoing restoration work, and much of the tower is hidden behind wooden scaffolding. While I try to imagine what lies beneath, a man approaches and offers me a cup of chai. I gladly accept and enjoy the hot drink while watching the morning activity unfold around me. Groups of men dressed in white dhotis stream towards the temple. Everyone in the vicinity is barefoot. Even the cows wandering in front of the ticket office seem perfectly at home.
After making use of a surprisingly well-maintained public toilet and passing through security, I encounter long queues leading towards the innermost shrine. As a non-Hindu, I am not permitted to enter the sanctum, so I purchase a discounted foreigner ticket for the general temple grounds instead. Inside, the elaborate architecture continues in every direction. Colourful sculptures cover pillars and ceilings, while a ceremonial procession winds through the corridors accompanied by the deep sound of drums. Priests carry one of the temple’s idols through the crowd as devotees pause to watch. Although parts of the complex remain inaccessible, there is still plenty to admire. Eventually I step back into the streets surrounding the temple, where pilgrims, vendors and worshippers fill every lane. The atmosphere reminds me of Varanasi. Before leaving, I circle the complex one final time, reading about the legendary marriage of Meenakshi and her husband Sundareswarar. Then I collect my shoes and luggage and continue to the nearby banana market.
The market is far larger than I expect, with vendors unloading and sorting bunches of bananas in every imaginable shade of green and yellow. Alongside the fruit are sacks of onions, piles of spices and a constant flow of buyers negotiating prices. Later, I make my way to the Thirumalai Nayakkar Mahal. Built in the 17th century by King Thirumalai Nayak, the palace provides a striking contrast to the crowded streets and temple courtyards. Its vast courtyard is surrounded by soaring columns and elegant arches that blend Dravidian and Islamic influences. After the sensory overload of the morning, the spacious halls and quiet atmosphere offer a welcome opportunity to slow down. On the way back to the railway station, I stumble across a north Indian snack shops which to my surprise sells kachori and malai. The delicious combination of spicey and sweet once again takes me back to Varanasi.
Tiruchirappalli
I arrive in Tiruchirappalli on the second day of Pongal. My destination is the Sri Ranganatha Swamy Temple at Srirangam, one of the largest functioning temple complexes in the world. A motorbike taxi drops me at the edge of the temple town. Immediately, the atmosphere feels different. Cows wander between pilgrims and the streets are lined with shops selling flower garlands, coconuts, incense, brass lamps and devotional images. The scent of jasmine and camphor hangs in the air. At the south gate, I leave my shoes behind and enter the complex barefoot. Inside, I spend hours wandering through the labyrinth-like courtyards and halls. At one point I follow a group of pilgrims who gather around a small chamber. I manage a quick glimpse of golden idols before a guard notices me and firmly ushers me away. Like the inner shrine at Meenakshi Temple, the sanctum housing Lord Ranganatha is not accessible to non-Hindus. Still, there is plenty to see. I stroll through vast courtyards, admire the colourful gateway towers and explore the famous Thousand Pillar Hall.
Eventually I find myself returning towards the south gate along a path bordering a large garden. Families dressed in beautiful saris stop for commemorative photographs. Suddenly, everyone steps off the path and onto the grass. Looking up, I see why: a majestic temple elephant is making its way towards us, guided by its mahout. The elephant passes only a few metres away before disappearing towards another part of the complex. For a moment, all conversations stop as visitors watch it go. Before leaving, I take one last look at the colourful statues covering the towering gopurams. Standing beneath them, it is difficult to comprehend the sheer size of the temple.
Thanjavur
On the third day of Pongal, known as Mattu Pongal, I travel from Tiruchirappalli to Thanjavur. Unlike the previous days of the festival, Mattu Pongal is dedicated to cattle, particularly the cows and bulls that have traditionally helped farmers cultivate their fields. Animals are washed, decorated with flowers and bells, and rewarded with special treats. The timing feels especially fitting because Thanjavur’s Brihadisvara Temple is home to an enormous Nandi, Shiva’s sacred bull, carved from a single block of stone. Following the example of local visitors, I leave my sandals unattended near the entrance and walk across a giant kolam decorating the ground. Passing through the first gateway, I still cannot see the temple’s famous tower. Only after crossing the second gate does the massive vimana finally reveal itself.
Compared to Madurai and Srirangam, the atmosphere here feels more open. I spend some time simply watching people. Families in their finest clothes pose for photographs. Elderly men nap in the shade. Tourists admire the intricate stone carvings that have survived for over a millennium. The highlight of my visit is the enormous Nandi. Decorated with fresh flowers and lots of locally grown vegetables for Mattu Pongal, the sacred bull looks especially magnificent. A steady stream of devotees stops to admire it before continuing towards the sanctum. I join the crowd circling the pavilion. The festive atmosphere is wonderful, even if the heat and the number of visitors occasionally make me feel a little claustrophobic. I am particularly impressed by those who somehow manage to video call relatives while walking around the bull.
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